Miatapower List Archive

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Mail From: "Chad J. Douglas" <(email redacted)>

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Mail From: Chris Robertson <(email redacted)>

The silica beaded brushes work well. They are not cheap ($75 or so).
If you have never honed a cylinder before, then pay a shop to do it.
You will get better results, saving you money in the long run, and you
won't filthy up your work area.



--- "Chad J. Douglas" <(email redacted)> wrote:
> When rehoning the bores, I've heard of using a "bottle brush" hone on
> a drill to do the job. Is that just some "ghetto" technology, or is
> it a good way to hone the cylinders?
>
> Or, os it better to have a pro shop do the honing?
>
> What are the benefits/pitfalls of these 2 choices? Tell me which way
> you think is best and most cost-effective. Why?
>
> Chad
>


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Mail From: "Chad J. Douglas" <(email redacted)>

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Mail From: "Tom Graham" <(email redacted)>

Hi Chad,

I've used dingle berry hones and I've used replaceable hard stone hones. The
Miata bore is small and I've only used the stone type on small bore.

The hone marks, or cross hatch, serves two purposes. 1. It's a file to form
the rings to the bore. 2. After the rings are seated the sharp tips of the
cross hatch are worn smooth but the pattern remains to keep oil on the
cylinder wall.

The bore seems okay so I say DIY! Use a tub under the block to catch oil
because the bore and hone must be lubricated with a cutting fluid. Motor oil
and kerosene. Put the fluid in an oil can and have a friend pump while you
hone. The only worry is what grit hone to use with the rings. Modern rings
are harder and rounder than those of old and, as I understand, are more
critical of cross hatch size.

Tom

----- Original Message -----

> When rehoning the bores, I've heard of using a "bottle brush" hone on a
drill to do the job. Is that just some "ghetto" technology, or is it a good
way to hone the cylinders?
>
> Or, os it better to have a pro shop do the honing?
>
> What are the benefits/pitfalls of these 2 choices? Tell me which way you
think is best and most cost-effective. Why?
>
> Chad
>

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Mail From: "Eric Vaillancourt" <(email redacted)>

What you refer to is called a "flex hone" or Flex ball hone". It's
basically a bunch of balls of grit impregnated whatever on the end of
bristles. They do work, but stones are: A) More precise. B) Ensure a
strait even bore better. C) help you to eye that your hone action is
strait, (if you are doing this yourself).

The flex hones can be good for some things, but they are really more for a
clean up action, not actual honing, IMHO. Generally you hone after the
bores have been machined with a torque plate and at that point you know the
bores are strait and round. The flex hone would be less of an issue then.
If you are trying to hone a used bore just to clean it up some and you want
to try to make it as strait and round as possible, use stones.

Eric Vaillancourt
Oregon City, OR

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chad J. Douglas" <(email redacted)>
To: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 8:37 AM
Subject: Honing: Pro Shop or DIY "Bottle Brush?"


> When rehoning the bores, I've heard of using a "bottle brush" hone on a
drill to do the job. Is that just some "ghetto" technology, or is it a good
way to hone the cylinders?
>
> Or, os it better to have a pro shop do the honing?
>
> What are the benefits/pitfalls of these 2 choices? Tell me which way you
think is best and most cost-effective. Why?
>
> Chad
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)

In a message dated 1/29/2003 9:55:38 AM Pacific Standard Time,
(email redacted) writes:

> Assuming a good do a good job with the bottle brush, are there still reasons
> for a shop to do it?
>

Some rings types require a specific cylinder surface and honing protocol.

Sheldon