Miata List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: abefm (Abraham Mara)

Just a quick hello to everyone on the list as I'm new here. The name's Abe.

I've got a 2000 miata which I got salvage title, but I looked it over fine before I got it and it was put back together right. the car's been a dream aside from using a little oil (strange for a 20,000 mile car) but not in obscene amounts.

I just put a new set of Dunlops on the car after finding the inside of the right read tire worn to the belts (where the rest of the tires were just touching their wear bars). Dear old dad thinks it's just from a few too many burn outs.

Anyways, I get the new tires (and a decent 4 wheel alignment) on the car, and suddenly the *slightest* pressure on the accelerator has the car bounding to the left, lifting the peddle makes it head to the right again (though I believe this may simply be because I'm trying to straighten the car out durring "accelerations".) Downshifts also have the car pulling left (seeming counterintuitive to me, as I would expect it to go opposite the direction it goes under acceleration).

The alignment is now dead on where as before it was just in spec. The tires are brand new (20 miles on them?) but this is driving me crazy. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? It's difficult to even commute in the car, I'm afraid to change throttle position for fear of leaving my lane. I've put 8 months in this car so I know it's a change since the tires.

Lastly, I heard a tremendous bang going down the road the other day, during a turn into a dip - but it could have been the truck next to me? at any rate, I looked it over myself, as did my father, and the alignment guy and none of us saw anything obvious. Could anyone shed some light on what might be going on? The only thing off on the car is a split boot on the right front lower ball joint.

Thanks in advance, it's a nice list you seem to have here.
-Abe.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: p.manning (Patrick Manning)

Abe--

After the alignment, were the eccentric bolts tightened enough? I have
heard fo people having problems after getting an alignment if the bolts are
not cranked down /really/ tight. If the rears are loose, you can get
'torque' steer when going from a power on to power off condition because the
loose bolts allow the a-arms to shift slightly causing the alignment to
change. A loose adjuster bolt might also account for your bang, too.

Something to consider...

Good luck

Best

Pat

'96 B&T
Nutmeg Miata, CT

> -----Original Message-----
> From: (email redacted) [mailto:(email redacted)]On Behalf
> Of Abraham Mara
> Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 2:08 PM
> To: (email redacted)
> Cc: (email redacted)
> Subject: [Miata] Torque Steer in stock trim?
>
>
> Just a quick hello to everyone on the list as I'm new here. The
> name's Abe.
>
> I've got a 2000 miata which I got salvage title, but I looked it
> over fine before I got it and it was put back together right.
> the car's been a dream aside from using a little oil (strange for
> a 20,000 mile car) but not in obscene amounts.
>
> I just put a new set of Dunlops on the car after finding the
> inside of the right read tire worn to the belts (where the rest
> of the tires were just touching their wear bars). Dear old dad
> thinks it's just from a few too many burn outs.
>
> Anyways, I get the new tires (and a decent 4 wheel alignment) on
> the car, and suddenly the *slightest* pressure on the accelerator
> has the car bounding to the left, lifting the peddle makes it
> head to the right again (though I believe this may simply be
> because I'm trying to straighten the car out durring
> "accelerations".) Downshifts also have the car pulling left
> (seeming counterintuitive to me, as I would expect it to go
> opposite the direction it goes under acceleration).
>
> The alignment is now dead on where as before it was just in spec.
> The tires are brand new (20 miles on them?) but this is driving
> me crazy. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? It's
> difficult to even commute in the car, I'm afraid to change
> throttle position for fear of leaving my lane. I've put 8 months
> in this car so I know it's a change since the tires.
>
> Lastly, I heard a tremendous bang going down the road the other
> day, during a turn into a dip - but it could have been the truck
> next to me? at any rate, I looked it over myself, as did my
> father, and the alignment guy and none of us saw anything
> obvious. Could anyone shed some light on what might be going on?
> The only thing off on the car is a split boot on the right front
> lower ball joint.
>
> Thanks in advance, it's a nice list you seem to have here.
> -Abe.
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: keith (Keith Tanner)

Check your tire pressures. If you have a Torsen LSD, the car will exhibit
this behaviour with any difference in tire diameters.

Keith

At 12:07 02/09/03, Abraham Mara wrote:
>Just a quick hello to everyone on the list as I'm new here. The name's Abe.
>
>I've got a 2000 miata which I got salvage title, but I looked it over fine
>before I got it and it was put back together right. the car's been a
>dream aside from using a little oil (strange for a 20,000 mile car) but
>not in obscene amounts.
>
>I just put a new set of Dunlops on the car after finding the inside of the
>right read tire worn to the belts (where the rest of the tires were just
>touching their wear bars). Dear old dad thinks it's just from a few too
>many burn outs.
>
>Anyways, I get the new tires (and a decent 4 wheel alignment) on the car,
>and suddenly the *slightest* pressure on the accelerator has the car
>bounding to the left, lifting the peddle makes it head to the right again
>(though I believe this may simply be because I'm trying to straighten the
>car out durring "accelerations".) Downshifts also have the car pulling
>left (seeming counterintuitive to me, as I would expect it to go opposite
>the direction it goes under acceleration).
>
>The alignment is now dead on where as before it was just in spec. The
>tires are brand new (20 miles on them?) but this is driving me
>crazy. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? It's difficult to even
>commute in the car, I'm afraid to change throttle position for fear of
>leaving my lane. I've put 8 months in this car so I know it's a change
>since the tires.
>
>Lastly, I heard a tremendous bang going down the road the other day,
>during a turn into a dip - but it could have been the truck next to
>me? at any rate, I looked it over myself, as did my father, and the
>alignment guy and none of us saw anything obvious. Could anyone shed some
>light on what might be going on? The only thing off on the car is a split
>boot on the right front lower ball joint.
>
>Thanks in advance, it's a nice list you seem to have here.
> -Abe.
>_______________________________________________
>Miata mailing list
>(email redacted)
>realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: abefm (Abraham Mara)

Pat & Keith,
Thanks - I'l definatley check into the loser bolts - I was thinking something similar, but hadn't any reason to imagine they would need exceptional tightening. It was the guy's first time working on a miata (since another guy had to show him where the adjustments were) though other than that it seemed to be a real bang up job.

Keith - I don't have a LSD, but I imagine I wouldn't mind having one! Do you know if it's easy to get one in, or if you get anything out of it? The same question pertains to the six speed - though for both I imagine it's not worth the expense until the units I've got have some more wear on them and need changing anyways.
Thanks again!
-Abe.
-------Original Message-------
From: Patrick Manning <(email redacted)>
Sent: 09/02/03 12:14 PM
To: (email redacted), (email redacted)
Subject: RE: [Miata] Torque Steer in stock trim?

>
> Abe--

After the alignment, were the eccentric bolts tightened enough? I have
heard fo people having problems after getting an alignment if the bolts
are
not cranked down /really/ tight. If the rears are loose, you can get
'torque' steer when going from a power on to power off condition because
the
loose bolts allow the a-arms to shift slightly causing the alignment to
change. A loose adjuster bolt might also account for your bang, too.

Something to consider...

Good luck

Best

Pat

'96 B&T
Nutmeg Miata, CT

> -----Original Message-----
> From: (email redacted) [mailto:(email redacted)]On Behalf
> Of Abraham Mara
> Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 2:08 PM
> To: (email redacted)
> Cc: (email redacted)
> Subject: [Miata] Torque Steer in stock trim?
>
>
> Just a quick hello to everyone on the list as I'm new here. The
> name's Abe.
>
> I've got a 2000 miata which I got salvage title, but I looked it
> over fine before I got it and it was put back together right.
> the car's been a dream aside from using a little oil (strange for
> a 20,000 mile car) but not in obscene amounts.
>
> I just put a new set of Dunlops on the car after finding the
> inside of the right read tire worn to the belts (where the rest
> of the tires were just touching their wear bars). Dear old dad
> thinks it's just from a few too many burn outs.
>
> Anyways, I get the new tires (and a decent 4 wheel alignment) on
> the car, and suddenly the *slightest* pressure on the accelerator
> has the car bounding to the left, lifting the peddle makes it
> head to the right again (though I believe this may simply be
> because I'm trying to straighten the car out durring
> "accelerations".) Downshifts also have the car pulling left
> (seeming counterintuitive to me, as I would expect it to go
> opposite the direction it goes under acceleration).
>
> The alignment is now dead on where as before it was just in spec.
> The tires are brand new (20 miles on them?) but this is driving
> me crazy. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? It's
> difficult to even commute in the car, I'm afraid to change
> throttle position for fear of leaving my lane. I've put 8 months
> in this car so I know it's a change since the tires.
>
> Lastly, I heard a tremendous bang going down the road the other
> day, during a turn into a dip - but it could have been the truck
> next to me? at any rate, I looked it over myself, as did my
> father, and the alignment guy and none of us saw anything
> obvious. Could anyone shed some light on what might be going on?
> The only thing off on the car is a split boot on the right front
> lower ball joint.
>
> Thanks in advance, it's a nice list you seem to have here.
> -Abe.
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata

>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: simon (Simon Whitworth)

Broken sway bar mount ?

-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted) [mailto:(email redacted)] On Behalf
Of Abraham Mara
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 11:08 AM
To: (email redacted)
Cc: (email redacted)
Subject: [Miata] Torque Steer in stock trim?


Just a quick hello to everyone on the list as I'm new here. The name's
Abe.

I've got a 2000 miata which I got salvage title, but I looked it over
fine before I got it and it was put back together right. the car's been
a dream aside from using a little oil (strange for a 20,000 mile car)
but not in obscene amounts.

I just put a new set of Dunlops on the car after finding the inside of
the right read tire worn to the belts (where the rest of the tires were
just touching their wear bars). Dear old dad thinks it's just from a
few too many burn outs.

Anyways, I get the new tires (and a decent 4 wheel alignment) on the
car, and suddenly the *slightest* pressure on the accelerator has the
car bounding to the left, lifting the peddle makes it head to the right
again (though I believe this may simply be because I'm trying to
straighten the car out durring "accelerations".) Downshifts also have
the car pulling left (seeming counterintuitive to me, as I would expect
it to go opposite the direction it goes under acceleration).

The alignment is now dead on where as before it was just in spec. The
tires are brand new (20 miles on them?) but this is driving me crazy.
Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions? It's difficult to even
commute in the car, I'm afraid to change throttle position for fear of
leaving my lane. I've put 8 months in this car so I know it's a change
since the tires.

Lastly, I heard a tremendous bang going down the road the other day,
during a turn into a dip - but it could have been the truck next to me?
at any rate, I looked it over myself, as did my father, and the
alignment guy and none of us saw anything obvious. Could anyone shed
some light on what might be going on? The only thing off on the car is
a split boot on the right front lower ball joint.

Thanks in advance, it's a nice list you seem to have here.
-Abe. _______________________________________________
Miata mailing list
(email redacted)
realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Brad Franks" <bfranks (Brad Franks)

Comments inserted...


----- Original Message -----
From: "Abraham Mara" <(email redacted)>


> I just put a new set of Dunlops on the car after finding the inside of the
right read tire worn to the belts (where the rest of the tires were just
touching their wear bars). Dear old dad thinks it's just from a few too
many burn outs.

He's likely correct. Non-Torsen cars will often burn the passenger rear tire
faster than the drivers side tire.

> Anyways, I get the new tires (and a decent 4 wheel alignment) on the car,
and suddenly the *slightest* pressure on the accelerator has the car
bounding to the left, lifting the peddle makes it head to the right again
(though I believe this may simply be because I'm trying to straighten the
car out durring "accelerations".) Downshifts also have the car pulling left
(seeming counterintuitive to me, as I would expect it to go opposite the
direction it goes under acceleration).

As Keith pointed out, check your tire pressures. Not only will the change in
diameter have an effect as he pointed out, but tire pressure also controls
(to a degree) the amount of traction available to a tire, as well as it's
characteristics under load. My mind really isn't up to explaining the
physics of this, just trust me on it.

Brad

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Tim.Mullen ((email redacted))

[this was a MIME-encoded message - it has been]
[filtered of non-plaintext attachments by ALF ]


Brad Franks wrote:

> > Dear old dad thinks it's just from a few too many burn outs.
>
> He's likely correct. Non-Torsen cars will often burn the
> passenger rear tire faster than the drivers side tire.

Although RWD live axle cars can tend to exhibit spinning tires
on one side of the car, RWD cars with independent suspension
in the rear usually don't - in fact, if you "dump the clutch",
you will usually spin both tires, even with open differentials...

As other's have pointed out, check the tire pressures, bolt
tightness, etc. Also check for play in the suspension bushings,
and binding in the suspension - especially since the car has a
salvage title - the car may not have been repaired as well as
it looks.

Additionally, I'd have the alignment rechecked - especially
since it was the first time for the guy who did the work, and
he had to be "instructed". Was an actual "four wheel" alignment
performed, where all four wheels were aligned to the center line
of the car, and aligned with the front with respect to the rear?
Or was it a "regular" alignment where they only check/set the
alignment of each "axle" relative to itself - not front to rear,
which can have the front pointing in one direction and the rear
in another...

Tim Mullen


[ALF: attachment (type="text/html") removed from message]

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: abefm (Abraham Mara)

Brad,
I'll admit I haven't gotten to checking the tire pressures, and since it started raining just as I was going home to check that all the fasterners were tight, I figured I might as well let the shop check it. So they went over it (admitedly a bit quick) and said everything was tight. The thing that's got me is that I feel the effects on even very slight throttle. Enough so commuting is a lot of work just to stay in the lane. I turn the steering wheel a good inch and a half on every shift and back again if I want to maintain my lane, under <1/4 throttle driving.

My roomate suggested getting some more toe-in - the thinking being "mazda spec" will be for best fuel economy, and a few degrees toe in might stabalize the whole thing a lot more.

Also, they are 14 inch rims, and maybe all that sidewall is just hard to get used to. I had the same rims and sidewall before, but on a set of "Radial HR" (why a company would be so embarassed about it's products that they wouldn't put their name on it....) so I'm a little bit stumped. But all this info is good stuff. Thanks a lot everyone.
-Abe.

-------Original Message-------
From: Brad Franks <(email redacted)>

----- Original Message -----
From: "Abraham Mara" <(email redacted)>


> I just put a new set of Dunlops on the car after finding the inside of
the
right read tire worn to the belts (where the rest of the tires were just
touching their wear bars). Dear old dad thinks it's just from a few too
many burn outs.

He's likely correct. Non-Torsen cars will often burn the passenger rear
tire
faster than the drivers side tire.

> Anyways, I get the new tires (and a decent 4 wheel alignment) on the
car,
and suddenly the *slightest* pressure on the accelerator has the car
bounding to the left, lifting the peddle makes it head to the right again
(though I believe this may simply be because I'm trying to straighten the
car out durring "accelerations".) Downshifts also have the car pulling
left
(seeming counterintuitive to me, as I would expect it to go opposite the
direction it goes under acceleration).

As Keith pointed out, check your tire pressures. Not only will the change
in
diameter have an effect as he pointed out, but tire pressure also controls
(to a degree) the amount of traction available to a tire, as well as it's
characteristics under load. My mind really isn't up to explaining the
physics of this, just trust me on it.

Brad



>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: currier_john (John Currier)

I'd find another alignment shop. Finding a good one isn't always easy,
but it'll make a big difference. I'm sure someone will give a
recommendation if you tell us where you live.

Also, Mazda's alignment specs are extremely "wide". I went with
Lanny's alignment specs (hummingbirds.net/alignment.html)
and have no regrets.

The alignment that the local Mazda dealer did had things way out of
whack with, for example, LF caster of 6.7 and RF of 3.6...camber was
positive on the left and negative on the right. Not pretty. I won't
be going back now that I've found a shop that knows what they're doing.

John

--- Abraham Mara <(email redacted)> wrote:
> Brad,
> I'll admit I haven't gotten to checking the tire pressures, and since
> it started raining just as I was going home to check that all the
> fasterners were tight, I figured I might as well let the shop check
> it. So they went over it (admitedly a bit quick) and said everything
> was tight. The thing that's got me is that I feel the effects on
> even very slight throttle. Enough so commuting is a lot of work just
> to stay in the lane. I turn the steering wheel a good inch and a
> half on every shift and back again if I want to maintain my lane,
> under <1/4 throttle driving.
>
> My roomate suggested getting some more toe-in - the thinking being
> "mazda spec" will be for best fuel economy, and a few degrees toe in
> might stabalize the whole thing a lot more.
>
> Also, they are 14 inch rims, and maybe all that sidewall is just hard
> to get used to. I had the same rims and sidewall before, but on a
> set of "Radial HR" (why a company would be so embarassed about it's
> products that they wouldn't put their name on it....) so I'm a little
> bit stumped. But all this info is good stuff. Thanks a lot
> everyone.
> -Abe.
>
> -------Original Message-------
> From: Brad Franks <(email redacted)>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Abraham Mara" <(email redacted)>
>
>
> > I just put a new set of Dunlops on the car after finding the inside
> of
> the
> right read tire worn to the belts (where the rest of the tires were
> just
> touching their wear bars). Dear old dad thinks it's just from a few
> too
> many burn outs.
>
> He's likely correct. Non-Torsen cars will often burn the passenger
> rear
> tire
> faster than the drivers side tire.
>
> > Anyways, I get the new tires (and a decent 4 wheel alignment) on
> the
> car,
> and suddenly the *slightest* pressure on the accelerator has the car
> bounding to the left, lifting the peddle makes it head to the right
> again
> (though I believe this may simply be because I'm trying to straighten
> the
> car out durring "accelerations".) Downshifts also have the car
> pulling
> left
> (seeming counterintuitive to me, as I would expect it to go opposite
> the
> direction it goes under acceleration).
>
> As Keith pointed out, check your tire pressures. Not only will the
> change
> in
> diameter have an effect as he pointed out, but tire pressure also
> controls
> (to a degree) the amount of traction available to a tire, as well as
> it's
> characteristics under load. My mind really isn't up to explaining the
> physics of this, just trust me on it.
>
> Brad
>
>
>
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata


=====
John Currier - 10AE #5406
Systems Architect - S1 Corp

import standard.disclaimer.*;

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
sitebuilder.yahoo.com

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: abefm (Abraham Mara)

This place did do a nice job (assuming I can trust their numbers) of getting everything right on spec. Dead center in the middle of all the adjustments, I would have expected them to leave the stuff just barely in spec alone, but they put it all right down the middle - or pretty close, anyways.

But I would be interested if anyone knows a good place in San Diego/deep-southern california worth going to. I will see if I can get the shop to adjust it to different numbers (I'm sure they'd rather do that than take back the tires they sold me), so I'm very glad for the suggestion.

-Abe.
P.S. While I'm asking about good places to get work done, I've also got a turbocharged motorcycle, and I just put on a new carb. Does anyone know a good place to get it dynoed in the vicinity? I imagine there's some places in LA that know about carburated turbo set ups, and have the facilities for working on motorcycles.... But I can't seem to find any good ones. Thanks again!

-------Original Message-------
From: John Currier <(email redacted)>
Sent: 09/04/03 10:12 AM
To: (email redacted), Brad Franks <(email redacted)>, (email redacted)
Subject: Re: Re: [Miata] Torque Steer in stock trim?

>
> I'd find another alignment shop. Finding a good one isn't always easy,
but it'll make a big difference. I'm sure someone will give a
recommendation if you tell us where you live.

Also, Mazda's alignment specs are extremely "wide". I went with
Lanny's alignment specs (hummingbirds.net/alignment.html)
and have no regrets.

The alignment that the local Mazda dealer did had things way out of
whack with, for example, LF caster of 6.7 and RF of 3.6...camber was
positive on the left and negative on the right. Not pretty. I won't
be going back now that I've found a shop that knows what they're doing.

John

--- Abraham Mara <(email redacted)> wrote:
> Brad,
> I'll admit I haven't gotten to checking the tire pressures, and since
> it started raining just as I was going home to check that all the
> fasterners were tight, I figured I might as well let the shop check
> it. So they went over it (admitedly a bit quick) and said everything
> was tight. The thing that's got me is that I feel the effects on
> even very slight throttle. Enough so commuting is a lot of work just
> to stay in the lane. I turn the steering wheel a good inch and a
> half on every shift and back again if I want to maintain my lane,
> under <1/4 throttle driving.
>
> My roomate suggested getting some more toe-in - the thinking being
> "mazda spec" will be for best fuel economy, and a few degrees toe in
> might stabalize the whole thing a lot more.
>
> Also, they are 14 inch rims, and maybe all that sidewall is just hard
> to get used to. I had the same rims and sidewall before, but on a
> set of "Radial HR" (why a company would be so embarassed about it's
> products that they wouldn't put their name on it....) so I'm a little
> bit stumped. But all this info is good stuff. Thanks a lot
> everyone.
> -Abe.
>
> -------Original Message-------
> From: Brad Franks <(email redacted)>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Abraham Mara" <(email redacted)>
>
>
> > I just put a new set of Dunlops on the car after finding the inside
> of
> the
> right read tire worn to the belts (where the rest of the tires were
> just
> touching their wear bars). Dear old dad thinks it's just from a few
> too
> many burn outs.
>
> He's likely correct. Non-Torsen cars will often burn the passenger
> rear
> tire
> faster than the drivers side tire.
>
> > Anyways, I get the new tires (and a decent 4 wheel alignment) on
> the
> car,
> and suddenly the *slightest* pressure on the accelerator has the car
> bounding to the left, lifting the peddle makes it head to the right
> again
> (though I believe this may simply be because I'm trying to straighten
> the
> car out durring "accelerations".) Downshifts also have the car
> pulling
> left
> (seeming counterintuitive to me, as I would expect it to go opposite
> the
> direction it goes under acceleration).
>
> As Keith pointed out, check your tire pressures. Not only will the
> change
> in
> diameter have an effect as he pointed out, but tire pressure also
> controls
> (to a degree) the amount of traction available to a tire, as well as
> it's
> characteristics under load. My mind really isn't up to explaining the
> physics of this, just trust me on it.
>
> Brad
>
>
>
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata


=====
John Currier - 10AE #5406
Systems Architect - S1 Corp

import standard.disclaimer.*;

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: abefm (Abraham Mara)

One more thing, though I hate to take up space in your mailboxes... How close are the numbers at hummingbirds.net/alignment.html to those that work good on a late model (2000 in my case)... I don't have a feel for how much the suspension changed year to year.
-Abe.
-------Original Message-------
From: John Currier <(email redacted)>
Sent: 09/04/03 05:12 PM
To: (email redacted), Brad Franks <(email redacted)>, (email redacted)
Subject: Re: Re: [Miata] Torque Steer in stock trim?

>
> I'd find another alignment shop. Finding a good one isn't always easy,
but it'll make a big difference. I'm sure someone will give a
recommendation if you tell us where you live.

Also, Mazda's alignment specs are extremely "wide". I went with
Lanny's alignment specs (hummingbirds.net/alignment.html)
and have no regrets.

The alignment that the local Mazda dealer did had things way out of
whack with, for example, LF caster of 6.7 and RF of 3.6...camber was
positive on the left and negative on the right. Not pretty. I won't
be going back now that I've found a shop that knows what they're doing.

John

--- Abraham Mara <(email redacted)> wrote:
> Brad,
> I'll admit I haven't gotten to checking the tire pressures, and since
> it started raining just as I was going home to check that all the
> fasterners were tight, I figured I might as well let the shop check
> it. So they went over it (admitedly a bit quick) and said everything
> was tight. The thing that's got me is that I feel the effects on
> even very slight throttle. Enough so commuting is a lot of work just
> to stay in the lane. I turn the steering wheel a good inch and a
> half on every shift and back again if I want to maintain my lane,
> under <1/4 throttle driving.
>
> My roomate suggested getting some more toe-in - the thinking being
> "mazda spec" will be for best fuel economy, and a few degrees toe in
> might stabalize the whole thing a lot more.
>
> Also, they are 14 inch rims, and maybe all that sidewall is just hard
> to get used to. I had the same rims and sidewall before, but on a
> set of "Radial HR" (why a company would be so embarassed about it's
> products that they wouldn't put their name on it....) so I'm a little
> bit stumped. But all this info is good stuff. Thanks a lot
> everyone.
> -Abe.
>
> -------Original Message-------
> From: Brad Franks <(email redacted)>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Abraham Mara" <(email redacted)>
>
>
> > I just put a new set of Dunlops on the car after finding the inside
> of
> the
> right read tire worn to the belts (where the rest of the tires were
> just
> touching their wear bars). Dear old dad thinks it's just from a few
> too
> many burn outs.
>
> He's likely correct. Non-Torsen cars will often burn the passenger
> rear
> tire
> faster than the drivers side tire.
>
> > Anyways, I get the new tires (and a decent 4 wheel alignment) on
> the
> car,
> and suddenly the *slightest* pressure on the accelerator has the car
> bounding to the left, lifting the peddle makes it head to the right
> again
> (though I believe this may simply be because I'm trying to straighten
> the
> car out durring "accelerations".) Downshifts also have the car
> pulling
> left
> (seeming counterintuitive to me, as I would expect it to go opposite
> the
> direction it goes under acceleration).
>
> As Keith pointed out, check your tire pressures. Not only will the
> change
> in
> diameter have an effect as he pointed out, but tire pressure also
> controls
> (to a degree) the amount of traction available to a tire, as well as
> it's
> characteristics under load. My mind really isn't up to explaining the
> physics of this, just trust me on it.
>
> Brad
>
>
>
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata


=====
John Currier - 10AE #5406
Systems Architect - S1 Corp

import standard.disclaimer.*;

__________________________________
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>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: SKeeling (Keeling, Shaun)

Can anybody recommend a good alignment shop in the Denver, CO area?

TIA

Shaun

-----Original Message-----
From: John Currier [mailto:(email redacted)]
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 11:12 AM
To: (email redacted); Brad Franks; (email redacted)
Subject: Re: Re: [Miata] Torque Steer in stock trim?

I'd find another alignment shop. Finding a good one isn't always easy,
but it'll make a big difference. I'm sure someone will give a
recommendation if you tell us where you live.

Also, Mazda's alignment specs are extremely "wide". I went with
Lanny's alignment specs (hummingbirds.net/alignment.html)
and have no regrets.

The alignment that the local Mazda dealer did had things way out of
whack with, for example, LF caster of 6.7 and RF of 3.6...camber was
positive on the left and negative on the right. Not pretty. I won't
be going back now that I've found a shop that knows what they're doing.

John

--- Abraham Mara <(email redacted)> wrote:
> Brad,
> I'll admit I haven't gotten to checking the tire pressures, and since
> it started raining just as I was going home to check that all the
> fasterners were tight, I figured I might as well let the shop check
> it. So they went over it (admitedly a bit quick) and said everything
> was tight. The thing that's got me is that I feel the effects on
> even very slight throttle. Enough so commuting is a lot of work just
> to stay in the lane. I turn the steering wheel a good inch and a
> half on every shift and back again if I want to maintain my lane,
> under <1/4 throttle driving.
>
> My roomate suggested getting some more toe-in - the thinking being
> "mazda spec" will be for best fuel economy, and a few degrees toe in
> might stabalize the whole thing a lot more.
>
> Also, they are 14 inch rims, and maybe all that sidewall is just hard
> to get used to. I had the same rims and sidewall before, but on a
> set of "Radial HR" (why a company would be so embarassed about it's
> products that they wouldn't put their name on it....) so I'm a little
> bit stumped. But all this info is good stuff. Thanks a lot
> everyone.
> -Abe.
>
> -------Original Message-------
> From: Brad Franks <(email redacted)>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Abraham Mara" <(email redacted)>
>
>
> > I just put a new set of Dunlops on the car after finding the inside
> of
> the
> right read tire worn to the belts (where the rest of the tires were
> just
> touching their wear bars). Dear old dad thinks it's just from a few
> too
> many burn outs.
>
> He's likely correct. Non-Torsen cars will often burn the passenger
> rear
> tire
> faster than the drivers side tire.
>
> > Anyways, I get the new tires (and a decent 4 wheel alignment) on
> the
> car,
> and suddenly the *slightest* pressure on the accelerator has the car
> bounding to the left, lifting the peddle makes it head to the right
> again
> (though I believe this may simply be because I'm trying to straighten
> the
> car out durring "accelerations".) Downshifts also have the car
> pulling
> left
> (seeming counterintuitive to me, as I would expect it to go opposite
> the
> direction it goes under acceleration).
>
> As Keith pointed out, check your tire pressures. Not only will the
> change
> in
> diameter have an effect as he pointed out, but tire pressure also
> controls
> (to a degree) the amount of traction available to a tire, as well as
> it's
> characteristics under load. My mind really isn't up to explaining the
> physics of this, just trust me on it.
>
> Brad
>
>
>
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata


=====
John Currier - 10AE #5406
Systems Architect - S1 Corp

import standard.disclaimer.*;

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
sitebuilder.yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Miata mailing list
(email redacted)
realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: currier_john (John Currier)

They worked great on my 10AE ('99). I don't think the suspension
changed until '01...at least that's the impression I get from
racingbeat.com/swaybarguide.pdf.

John

--- Abraham Mara <(email redacted)> wrote:
> One more thing, though I hate to take up space in your mailboxes...
> How close are the numbers at
> hummingbirds.net/alignment.html to those that work good on
> a late model (2000 in my case)... I don't have a feel for how much
> the suspension changed year to year.
> -Abe.
> -------Original Message-------
> From: John Currier <(email redacted)>
> Sent: 09/04/03 05:12 PM
> To: (email redacted), Brad Franks <(email redacted)>,
> (email redacted)
> Subject: Re: Re: [Miata] Torque Steer in stock trim?
>
> >
> > I'd find another alignment shop. Finding a good one isn't always
> easy,
> but it'll make a big difference. I'm sure someone will give a
> recommendation if you tell us where you live.
>
> Also, Mazda's alignment specs are extremely "wide". I went with
> Lanny's alignment specs (hummingbirds.net/alignment.html)
> and have no regrets.
>
> The alignment that the local Mazda dealer did had things way out of
> whack with, for example, LF caster of 6.7 and RF of 3.6...camber was
> positive on the left and negative on the right. Not pretty. I won't
> be going back now that I've found a shop that knows what they're
> doing.
>
> John
>
> --- Abraham Mara <(email redacted)> wrote:
> > Brad,
> > I'll admit I haven't gotten to checking the tire pressures, and
> since
> > it started raining just as I was going home to check that all the
> > fasterners were tight, I figured I might as well let the shop check
> > it. So they went over it (admitedly a bit quick) and said
> everything
> > was tight. The thing that's got me is that I feel the effects on
> > even very slight throttle. Enough so commuting is a lot of work
> just
> > to stay in the lane. I turn the steering wheel a good inch and a
> > half on every shift and back again if I want to maintain my lane,
> > under <1/4 throttle driving.
> >
> > My roomate suggested getting some more toe-in - the thinking being
> > "mazda spec" will be for best fuel economy, and a few degrees toe
> in
> > might stabalize the whole thing a lot more.
> >
> > Also, they are 14 inch rims, and maybe all that sidewall is just
> hard
> > to get used to. I had the same rims and sidewall before, but on a
> > set of "Radial HR" (why a company would be so embarassed about it's
> > products that they wouldn't put their name on it....) so I'm a
> little
> > bit stumped. But all this info is good stuff. Thanks a lot
> > everyone.
> > -Abe.
> >
> > -------Original Message-------
> > From: Brad Franks <(email redacted)>
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Abraham Mara" <(email redacted)>
> >
> >
> > > I just put a new set of Dunlops on the car after finding the
> inside
> > of
> > the
> > right read tire worn to the belts (where the rest of the tires were
> > just
> > touching their wear bars). Dear old dad thinks it's just from a
> few
> > too
> > many burn outs.
> >
> > He's likely correct. Non-Torsen cars will often burn the passenger
> > rear
> > tire
> > faster than the drivers side tire.
> >
> > > Anyways, I get the new tires (and a decent 4 wheel alignment) on
> > the
> > car,
> > and suddenly the *slightest* pressure on the accelerator has the
> car
> > bounding to the left, lifting the peddle makes it head to the right
> > again
> > (though I believe this may simply be because I'm trying to
> straighten
> > the
> > car out durring "accelerations".) Downshifts also have the car
> > pulling
> > left
> > (seeming counterintuitive to me, as I would expect it to go
> opposite
> > the
> > direction it goes under acceleration).
> >
> > As Keith pointed out, check your tire pressures. Not only will the
> > change
> > in
> > diameter have an effect as he pointed out, but tire pressure also
> > controls
> > (to a degree) the amount of traction available to a tire, as well
> as
> > it's
> > characteristics under load. My mind really isn't up to explaining
> the
> > physics of this, just trust me on it.
> >
> > Brad
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Miata mailing list
> > (email redacted)
> > realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata
>
>
> =====
> John Currier - 10AE #5406
> Systems Architect - S1 Corp
>
> import standard.disclaimer.*;
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
> sitebuilder.yahoo.com
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata


=====
John Currier - 10AE #5406
Systems Architect - S1 Corp

import standard.disclaimer.*;

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
sitebuilder.yahoo.com