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Motor Rebuilding Tips...

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Mail From: "Daniel Godelfer" <(email redacted)>

I am building my motor tomorrow night. I had a 40,000 mile 1.8 that br=
oke an oil pump. I sent the block to get a hone (not a bore), they are als=
o polishing and checking the crank. The checked the crank and said it is f=
ine for standard size bearings (stopped it in time) I am reusing the pisto=
ns. I cleaned them real good except for where the rings go. What do I use=
to get in-between there?

This is the first time I will be assembling the motor. I know the procedur=
es but I am wondering if there are any tips and tricks yall can give me? I=
bought new bearings and rings for it. The Machine shop said the bore was =
perfectly round and was fine for just a hone to help the new rings seat bet=
ter.

I also bought a new oil pump (hopefully no more oiling problems..)

Just wanted to know if there are any helpful hints on this..

Thanks.

Danny




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Mail From: "Fletcher Blades" <(email redacted)>

>I am reusing the pistons. I cleaned them real good except for where the=
=20
>rings go. What do I use to get in-between there?


Snap one of the old rings and use the square end to scrape it out...

Be carefull, I've cut my fingers whilst using old rings as scrapers...

Fletch.



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Mail From: Mark Peugeot <(email redacted)>




On Fri, 29 Mar 2002, Daniel Godelfer wrote:

> I am building my motor tomorrow night. I had a 40,000 mile 1.8
> that broke an oil pump. I sent the block to get a hone (not a bore),
> they are also polishing and checking the crank. The checked the crank
> and said it is fine for standard size bearings (stopped it in time)
> I am reusing the pistons. I cleaned them real good except for where
> the rings go. What do I use to get in-between there?
>
> This is the first time I will be assembling the motor. I know the
> procedures but I am wondering if there are any tips and tricks yall
> can give me? I bought new bearings and rings for it. The Machine
> shop said the bore was perfectly round and was fine for just a hone to
> help the new rings seat better.
>
> I also bought a new oil pump (hopefully no more oiling problems..)


Maybe it's time to think about going to a dry sump. :)

Mark



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Mail From: "Ralph Doehrmann" <(email redacted)>

Danny you can use a broken ring to clean the grooves. Be real carefull not
to gouge the alum. I've soaked pistons in a carb cleaner bucket for a week
and they come out looking new. (if you're not in a hurry)
There's tons of hint's/tips/advice. #1 is making sure the block is clean.
I usually take it to a shop for a hot washing. I feel that cleaning it in a
water-based parts washer is no more effective than peeing on it... Clean
the threaded holes with pipe cleaners and solvent when you get it back.
Test the crank with Plastigage. Make sure the crank passages are clean.

I loop a chunk of hose around the crank and stick it onto the rod bolts when
inserting the pistons. It will guide the rod and keep it from scratching
the cylinder and crank.

Be doggon sure you have the bearings in correctly with oil passages open!
I like to insert thrust bearings after the crank is in place and rotate them
around the crank. Just don't forget!

Check the ring end gap!!!!

Don't use a gasket on the oil pump. Just sealer. I like the grey stuff.
Never blue.

Put the oil squirters back in while the pistons are out!

Watch how tight you make the long alternator bolt. It goes through the oil
pump. When I used a gasket on the pump the bolt would torque the pump
sideways a bit.

Watch where the drain hole is behind the oil pump front seal. Be sure you
get the seal back far enough to clear the front pulley but not back enough
to block the oil return. Perfectly flat is usually good.

Ralph Doehrmann


-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Godelfer <(email redacted)>
To: (email redacted) <(email redacted)>
Date: Friday, March 29, 2002 1:29 AM
Subject: Motor Rebuilding Tips...


I am building my motor tomorrow night. I had a 40,000 mile 1.8 that
broke an oil pump. I sent the block to get a hone (not a bore), they are
also polishing and checking the crank. The checked the crank and said it is
fine for standard size bearings (stopped it in time) I am reusing the
pistons. I cleaned them real good except for where the rings go. What do I
use to get in-between there?

This is the first time I will be assembling the motor. I know the
procedures but I am wondering if there are any tips and tricks yall can give
me? I bought new bearings and rings for it. The Machine shop said the bore
was perfectly round and was fine for just a hone to help the new rings seat
better.

I also bought a new oil pump (hopefully no more oiling problems..)

Just wanted to know if there are any helpful hints on this..

Thanks.

Danny





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Mail From: Stu Akerman <(email redacted)>

This won't help you for tomorrow night, sorry. I remember
someone mentioning that Mazda has a shop manual that
specifically addresses building the 1.6 or 1.8 Miata engine in
more detail than the standard Mazda SM. I searched miataforum
for reference to it, without luck.

Anyone know of this manual, or am I starting to lose my memory!?

Stu

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daniel Godelfer <(email redacted)>
> Subject: Motor Rebuilding Tips...
>
> I am building my motor tomorrow night...Just wanted to know if
> there are any helpful hints on this.
>
> Danny


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Mail From: "Vince Russell" <(email redacted)>

Ralph,

Very nice list!

Vince

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph Doehrmann" <(email redacted)>
To: "Daniel Godelfer" <(email redacted)>; <(email redacted)>
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 5:07 AM
Subject: Re: Motor Rebuilding Tips...


> Danny you can use a broken ring to clean the grooves. Be real carefull
not
> to gouge the alum. I've soaked pistons in a carb cleaner bucket for a
week
> and they come out looking new. (if you're not in a hurry)
> There's tons of hint's/tips/advice. #1 is making sure the block is clean.
> I usually take it to a shop for a hot washing. I feel that cleaning it in
a
> water-based parts washer is no more effective than peeing on it... Clean
> the threaded holes with pipe cleaners and solvent when you get it back.
> Test the crank with Plastigage. Make sure the crank passages are clean.
>
> I loop a chunk of hose around the crank and stick it onto the rod bolts
when
> inserting the pistons. It will guide the rod and keep it from scratching
> the cylinder and crank.
>
> Be doggon sure you have the bearings in correctly with oil passages open!
> I like to insert thrust bearings after the crank is in place and rotate
them
> around the crank. Just don't forget!
>
> Check the ring end gap!!!!
>
> Don't use a gasket on the oil pump. Just sealer. I like the grey stuff.
> Never blue.
>
> Put the oil squirters back in while the pistons are out!
>
> Watch how tight you make the long alternator bolt. It goes through the
oil
> pump. When I used a gasket on the pump the bolt would torque the pump
> sideways a bit.
>
> Watch where the drain hole is behind the oil pump front seal. Be sure you
> get the seal back far enough to clear the front pulley but not back enough
> to block the oil return. Perfectly flat is usually good.
>
> Ralph Doehrmann
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daniel Godelfer <(email redacted)>
> To: (email redacted) <(email redacted)>
> Date: Friday, March 29, 2002 1:29 AM
> Subject: Motor Rebuilding Tips...
>
>
> I am building my motor tomorrow night. I had a 40,000 mile 1.8 that
> broke an oil pump. I sent the block to get a hone (not a bore), they are
> also polishing and checking the crank. The checked the crank and said it
is
> fine for standard size bearings (stopped it in time) I am reusing the
> pistons. I cleaned them real good except for where the rings go. What do
I
> use to get in-between there?
>
> This is the first time I will be assembling the motor. I know the
> procedures but I am wondering if there are any tips and tricks yall can
give
> me? I bought new bearings and rings for it. The Machine shop said the
bore
> was perfectly round and was fine for just a hone to help the new rings
seat
> better.
>
> I also bought a new oil pump (hopefully no more oiling problems..)
>
> Just wanted to know if there are any helpful hints on this..
>
> Thanks.
>
> Danny
>
>
>
>
>


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Mail From: Chris Robertson <(email redacted)>

Danny,

Go to Autozone and rent a piston ring scraper tool.
It will remove all the gunk from the ring grooves. Or
you can break an old ring in half and use the edge to
clean out the groove. Be careful not to slip and
scrape!

Good luck,
Chris

--- Daniel Godelfer <(email redacted)> wrote:
> I am reusing the pistons. I
> cleaned them real good except for where the rings
> go. What do I use to get in-between there?


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Mail From: Mark Peugeot <(email redacted)>


There are 3 manuals, one basic shop, one motor, and one electrical.

Mark


On Fri, 29 Mar 2002, Stu Akerman wrote:

> This won't help you for tomorrow night, sorry. I remember
> someone mentioning that Mazda has a shop manual that
> specifically addresses building the 1.6 or 1.8 Miata engine in
> more detail than the standard Mazda SM. I searched miataforum
> for reference to it, without luck.
>
> Anyone know of this manual, or am I starting to lose my memory!?
>
> Stu
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Daniel Godelfer <(email redacted)>
> > Subject: Motor Rebuilding Tips...
> >
> > I am building my motor tomorrow night...Just wanted to know if
> > there are any helpful hints on this.
> >
> > Danny
>
>


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Mail From: "Ralph Doehrmann" <(email redacted)>

When I was at Kelly AFB they had blind civilians checking turbine blades
because they could feel things that nobody else could see. I like to check
both side of bearings and both surfaces they mate to with clean fingers
(except for assembly lube) as they are installed. You don't want /anything/
between the bearing and what's on either side of it.

Have come to the conclusion that the one single thing you don't bother
checking is the thing that's going to be wrong. Check all clearances. I
check a ring in every cylinder. Be /sure/ they didn't sell you the wrong
size rings in the correct box.

Ralph




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