Miatapower List Archive
MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
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Jan 23, 2003 11:11 AM
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Mail From: "Robert Mangas" <(email redacted)>
Stethoscope?
>From: "Robbi Laurenson" <(email redacted)>
>To: "Jason C" <(email redacted)>, <(email redacted)>
>Subject: RE: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
>Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 08:55:18 -0800
>
>The injectors check out in diagnostics and ignition is correct. I can
>activate injectors individually in diag - is there a way I can tell if one
>is working without taking the rail out (removing the plenum and TB to get
>there)?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason C [mailto:(email redacted)]
> Sent: Thu 1/23/2003 8:38 AM
> To: Robbi Laurenson; (email redacted)
> Cc:
> Subject: Re: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
>
>
>
> First are you sure you're not misfiring? All injectors are injecting and
> all plugs are firing?
>
> Second, double check that the injectors are wired correctly, and that any
> two injector wires aren't swapped.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robbi Laurenson" <(email redacted)>
> To: <(email redacted)>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 6:26 PM
> Subject: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
>
>
> > I must say this is pretty $^#$ frustrating. I think I am going to have
>to
> give up for fear of damaging my motor if I haven't already.
> >
> > Tried adjusting the idle fuel zones individually and never seem to get
> better than the idle I get off of Phil's sequentially converted base map.
> Mostly it just gets worse and the motor bucks worse and runs rougher.
> >
> > I took the car out to a quiet side street to see how the non-idle part
>of
> the map works and the car drove OK for a couple of minutes, you just got
>to
> expect the car to bog and lurch when the rpm's sag below 500. Then I
>started
> hearing what sounds like detonation - rattly marbles at low rpm. The
>lambda
> read about 0.94 (still jumps quite a bit when driving but not as bad as
> idle) which is supposed to be in the ballpark. So I started adding fuel on
> the main trim just to be safe. More detonation and worse idle, and now a
> horrible metallic smell coming from the exhaust.
> >
> > Brought her home and spat curses to the gods. Then the logging software
> barfed on the log extraction and I lost the log. Great.
> >
> > So before I give up I have a few questions:
> >
> > Firstly, why would my exhaust start smelling like an electrical fire
> (metallic burny smell). If it is bad as I assume, how much damage would 3
> times around the block conceivably cause? Is this maybe just the new
>turbo?
> (Hope hope)
> >
> > When adjusting fuel it seems that there is no defined "best setting",
> rather a range of about 10% which has a tendency to move. Is this the
>case,
> or is there a more definite way to tell you have the right "spot"?
> >
> > Can listers please give me some common indicators (sounds, smells,
>motions
> etc) for the following. It may sound dumb, but what may be obvious to you
>is
> not to someone who's never done this before:
> >
> > Running rich
> > Running lean
> > Too much timing
> > Detonation
> > Running properly
> > Anything else relevant
> >
> > Also please feel free to tell me I'm on crack and should let
>professionals
> fleece me to get this done instead of wasting everyone's time and risking
>my
> motor when I don't know what I'm doing.
> >
> > Thanks all - here's the rant:
> >
> > AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHH%#$@^*Y$@$$%!!!!!!!!
> >
> > OK, better now.
> >
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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Mail From: "Robert Mangas" <(email redacted)>
Stethoscope?
>From: "Robbi Laurenson" <(email redacted)>
>To: "Jason C" <(email redacted)>, <(email redacted)>
>Subject: RE: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
>Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 08:55:18 -0800
>
>The injectors check out in diagnostics and ignition is correct. I can
>activate injectors individually in diag - is there a way I can tell if one
>is working without taking the rail out (removing the plenum and TB to get
>there)?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason C [mailto:(email redacted)]
> Sent: Thu 1/23/2003 8:38 AM
> To: Robbi Laurenson; (email redacted)
> Cc:
> Subject: Re: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
>
>
>
> First are you sure you're not misfiring? All injectors are injecting and
> all plugs are firing?
>
> Second, double check that the injectors are wired correctly, and that any
> two injector wires aren't swapped.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robbi Laurenson" <(email redacted)>
> To: <(email redacted)>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 6:26 PM
> Subject: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
>
>
> > I must say this is pretty $^#$ frustrating. I think I am going to have
>to
> give up for fear of damaging my motor if I haven't already.
> >
> > Tried adjusting the idle fuel zones individually and never seem to get
> better than the idle I get off of Phil's sequentially converted base map.
> Mostly it just gets worse and the motor bucks worse and runs rougher.
> >
> > I took the car out to a quiet side street to see how the non-idle part
>of
> the map works and the car drove OK for a couple of minutes, you just got
>to
> expect the car to bog and lurch when the rpm's sag below 500. Then I
>started
> hearing what sounds like detonation - rattly marbles at low rpm. The
>lambda
> read about 0.94 (still jumps quite a bit when driving but not as bad as
> idle) which is supposed to be in the ballpark. So I started adding fuel on
> the main trim just to be safe. More detonation and worse idle, and now a
> horrible metallic smell coming from the exhaust.
> >
> > Brought her home and spat curses to the gods. Then the logging software
> barfed on the log extraction and I lost the log. Great.
> >
> > So before I give up I have a few questions:
> >
> > Firstly, why would my exhaust start smelling like an electrical fire
> (metallic burny smell). If it is bad as I assume, how much damage would 3
> times around the block conceivably cause? Is this maybe just the new
>turbo?
> (Hope hope)
> >
> > When adjusting fuel it seems that there is no defined "best setting",
> rather a range of about 10% which has a tendency to move. Is this the
>case,
> or is there a more definite way to tell you have the right "spot"?
> >
> > Can listers please give me some common indicators (sounds, smells,
>motions
> etc) for the following. It may sound dumb, but what may be obvious to you
>is
> not to someone who's never done this before:
> >
> > Running rich
> > Running lean
> > Too much timing
> > Detonation
> > Running properly
> > Anything else relevant
> >
> > Also please feel free to tell me I'm on crack and should let
>professionals
> fleece me to get this done instead of wasting everyone's time and risking
>my
> motor when I don't know what I'm doing.
> >
> > Thanks all - here's the rant:
> >
> > AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHH%#$@^*Y$@$$%!!!!!!!!
> >
> > OK, better now.
> >
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.
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|
mailbot
Mail List Archive Bot
., Online, USA
|
Topic Creator (OP)
Jan 23, 2003 11:27 AM
Joined 15 years ago
227,243 Posts
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Robbi Laurenson" <(email redacted)>
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Mail From: "Robbi Laurenson" <(email redacted)>
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Tom" <(email redacted)>
sounds like you have it wired fine if it runs OK at some point and the
diagnostics agree. disconnect the IAC, set your timing to 15deg at all RPM
up to about 2k rpm, load 0 -> about 70kPa. your pulse width should be in the
1.2mS range w/ 550's at this point. once warm, the engine will idle over a
broad range of a/f ratios without too many issues, set the idle screw for a
decent idle until you get the IAC sorted out (configured w/ the motec or
changed for a compatible one). Slightly rich is best for stability. Are you
trying to use the feedback idle feature or just running on the low load /
RPM portion of the main map? 4 cylinders don't like 500rpm, especially under
load so don't worry if its rough there. If you don't mind, send me the cal
you're using.
Honestly though, spending some money at a shop w/ a load-type dyno and
experience w/ Motec will more than pay for itself in frustration saved and
engines spared. For a quick setup to 150kPa or so, they should be able to
set up the base fuel in about an hour. Copy the stock ignition map and
retard approx 1 deg for each 10 kPa boost to get the car drivable. Fine tune
and turn up the boost as time and quid permit.
Just thought of something - Do you still have a catalyst fitted? Might want
to leave it off until you get the car tuned better to prevent from clogging
/ melting the substrate.
-tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robbi Laurenson" <(email redacted)>
To: "Robert Mangas" <(email redacted)>; <(email redacted)>;
<(email redacted)>
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 12:27 PM
Subject: RE: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
> Hmmm, OK, so I should be able to hear them, eh? Perhaps I could hear the
vibration with something touching the injector lightly, or by clipping a
little mike to the injector. I'll try various methods along those lines-
thanks.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Mangas [mailto:(email redacted)]
> Sent: Thu 1/23/2003 9:11 AM
> To: Robbi Laurenson; (email redacted); (email redacted)
> Cc:
> Subject: RE: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
>
>
>
>
>
> Stethoscope?
>
>
>
>
> >From: "Robbi Laurenson" <(email redacted)>
> >To: "Jason C" <(email redacted)>, <(email redacted)>
> >Subject: RE: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
> >Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 08:55:18 -0800
> >
> >The injectors check out in diagnostics and ignition is correct. I can
> >activate injectors individually in diag - is there a way I can tell if
one
> >is working without taking the rail out (removing the plenum and TB to get
> >there)?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jason C [mailto:(email redacted)]
> > Sent: Thu 1/23/2003 8:38 AM
> > To: Robbi Laurenson; (email redacted)
> > Cc:
> > Subject: Re: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
> >
> >
> >
> > First are you sure you're not misfiring? All injectors are
injecting and
> > all plugs are firing?
> >
> > Second, double check that the injectors are wired correctly, and
that any
> > two injector wires aren't swapped.
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Robbi Laurenson" <(email redacted)>
> > To: <(email redacted)>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 6:26 PM
> > Subject: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
> >
> >
> > > I must say this is pretty $^#$ frustrating. I think I am going
to have
> >to
> > give up for fear of damaging my motor if I haven't already.
> > >
> > > Tried adjusting the idle fuel zones individually and never seem
to get
> > better than the idle I get off of Phil's sequentially converted
base map.
> > Mostly it just gets worse and the motor bucks worse and runs
rougher.
> > >
> > > I took the car out to a quiet side street to see how the
non-idle part
> >of
> > the map works and the car drove OK for a couple of minutes, you
just got
> >to
> > expect the car to bog and lurch when the rpm's sag below 500. Then
I
> >started
> > hearing what sounds like detonation - rattly marbles at low rpm.
The
> >lambda
> > read about 0.94 (still jumps quite a bit when driving but not as
bad as
> > idle) which is supposed to be in the ballpark. So I started adding
fuel on
> > the main trim just to be safe. More detonation and worse idle, and
now a
> > horrible metallic smell coming from the exhaust.
> > >
> > > Brought her home and spat curses to the gods. Then the logging
software
> > barfed on the log extraction and I lost the log. Great.
> > >
> > > So before I give up I have a few questions:
> > >
> > > Firstly, why would my exhaust start smelling like an electrical
fire
> > (metallic burny smell). If it is bad as I assume, how much damage
would 3
> > times around the block conceivably cause? Is this maybe just the
new
> >turbo?
> > (Hope hope)
> > >
> > > When adjusting fuel it seems that there is no defined "best
setting",
> > rather a range of about 10% which has a tendency to move. Is this
the
> >case,
> > or is there a more definite way to tell you have the right "spot"?
> > >
> > > Can listers please give me some common indicators (sounds,
smells,
> >motions
> > etc) for the following. It may sound dumb, but what may be obvious
to you
> >is
> > not to someone who's never done this before:
> > >
> > > Running rich
> > > Running lean
> > > Too much timing
> > > Detonation
> > > Running properly
> > > Anything else relevant
> > >
> > > Also please feel free to tell me I'm on crack and should let
> >professionals
> > fleece me to get this done instead of wasting everyone's time and
risking
> >my
> > motor when I don't know what I'm doing.
> > >
> > > Thanks all - here's the rant:
> > >
> > >
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHH%#$@^*Y$@$$%!!!!!!!!
> > >
> > > OK, better now.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.
> join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
>
>
>
>
Mail From: "Tom" <(email redacted)>
sounds like you have it wired fine if it runs OK at some point and the
diagnostics agree. disconnect the IAC, set your timing to 15deg at all RPM
up to about 2k rpm, load 0 -> about 70kPa. your pulse width should be in the
1.2mS range w/ 550's at this point. once warm, the engine will idle over a
broad range of a/f ratios without too many issues, set the idle screw for a
decent idle until you get the IAC sorted out (configured w/ the motec or
changed for a compatible one). Slightly rich is best for stability. Are you
trying to use the feedback idle feature or just running on the low load /
RPM portion of the main map? 4 cylinders don't like 500rpm, especially under
load so don't worry if its rough there. If you don't mind, send me the cal
you're using.
Honestly though, spending some money at a shop w/ a load-type dyno and
experience w/ Motec will more than pay for itself in frustration saved and
engines spared. For a quick setup to 150kPa or so, they should be able to
set up the base fuel in about an hour. Copy the stock ignition map and
retard approx 1 deg for each 10 kPa boost to get the car drivable. Fine tune
and turn up the boost as time and quid permit.
Just thought of something - Do you still have a catalyst fitted? Might want
to leave it off until you get the car tuned better to prevent from clogging
/ melting the substrate.
-tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robbi Laurenson" <(email redacted)>
To: "Robert Mangas" <(email redacted)>; <(email redacted)>;
<(email redacted)>
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2003 12:27 PM
Subject: RE: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
> Hmmm, OK, so I should be able to hear them, eh? Perhaps I could hear the
vibration with something touching the injector lightly, or by clipping a
little mike to the injector. I'll try various methods along those lines-
thanks.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Mangas [mailto:(email redacted)]
> Sent: Thu 1/23/2003 9:11 AM
> To: Robbi Laurenson; (email redacted); (email redacted)
> Cc:
> Subject: RE: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
>
>
>
>
>
> Stethoscope?
>
>
>
>
> >From: "Robbi Laurenson" <(email redacted)>
> >To: "Jason C" <(email redacted)>, <(email redacted)>
> >Subject: RE: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
> >Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 08:55:18 -0800
> >
> >The injectors check out in diagnostics and ignition is correct. I can
> >activate injectors individually in diag - is there a way I can tell if
one
> >is working without taking the rail out (removing the plenum and TB to get
> >there)?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jason C [mailto:(email redacted)]
> > Sent: Thu 1/23/2003 8:38 AM
> > To: Robbi Laurenson; (email redacted)
> > Cc:
> > Subject: Re: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
> >
> >
> >
> > First are you sure you're not misfiring? All injectors are
injecting and
> > all plugs are firing?
> >
> > Second, double check that the injectors are wired correctly, and
that any
> > two injector wires aren't swapped.
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Robbi Laurenson" <(email redacted)>
> > To: <(email redacted)>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 6:26 PM
> > Subject: MoTeC FMII - frustration!!!
> >
> >
> > > I must say this is pretty $^#$ frustrating. I think I am going
to have
> >to
> > give up for fear of damaging my motor if I haven't already.
> > >
> > > Tried adjusting the idle fuel zones individually and never seem
to get
> > better than the idle I get off of Phil's sequentially converted
base map.
> > Mostly it just gets worse and the motor bucks worse and runs
rougher.
> > >
> > > I took the car out to a quiet side street to see how the
non-idle part
> >of
> > the map works and the car drove OK for a couple of minutes, you
just got
> >to
> > expect the car to bog and lurch when the rpm's sag below 500. Then
I
> >started
> > hearing what sounds like detonation - rattly marbles at low rpm.
The
> >lambda
> > read about 0.94 (still jumps quite a bit when driving but not as
bad as
> > idle) which is supposed to be in the ballpark. So I started adding
fuel on
> > the main trim just to be safe. More detonation and worse idle, and
now a
> > horrible metallic smell coming from the exhaust.
> > >
> > > Brought her home and spat curses to the gods. Then the logging
software
> > barfed on the log extraction and I lost the log. Great.
> > >
> > > So before I give up I have a few questions:
> > >
> > > Firstly, why would my exhaust start smelling like an electrical
fire
> > (metallic burny smell). If it is bad as I assume, how much damage
would 3
> > times around the block conceivably cause? Is this maybe just the
new
> >turbo?
> > (Hope hope)
> > >
> > > When adjusting fuel it seems that there is no defined "best
setting",
> > rather a range of about 10% which has a tendency to move. Is this
the
> >case,
> > or is there a more definite way to tell you have the right "spot"?
> > >
> > > Can listers please give me some common indicators (sounds,
smells,
> >motions
> > etc) for the following. It may sound dumb, but what may be obvious
to you
> >is
> > not to someone who's never done this before:
> > >
> > > Running rich
> > > Running lean
> > > Too much timing
> > > Detonation
> > > Running properly
> > > Anything else relevant
> > >
> > > Also please feel free to tell me I'm on crack and should let
> >professionals
> > fleece me to get this done instead of wasting everyone's time and
risking
> >my
> > motor when I don't know what I'm doing.
> > >
> > > Thanks all - here's the rant:
> > >
> > >
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHH%#$@^*Y$@$$%!!!!!!!!
> > >
> > > OK, better now.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.
> join.msn.com/?page=features/virus
>
>
>
>
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