Miatapower List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

I like the idea of something like this in my trunk for when I get my
Aquamist set up:

store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D290203

3 gallons... or maybe you can order one of them washer bottle relocation
kits?
miatamania.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=33170&SortOrder=1

Matt

Ackley, Ray (R.A.) said:
> Well your time in boost is miniscule compared to cruise, at least for
> daily drivers. What are the options other than using the stock washer
> bottle? Can you cleanly wedge a second washer bottle or some such
> container in the engine compartment?
>
> Ray
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Alster [mailto:(email redacted)]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 1:22 PM
> To: Bill Cardell; Ackley, Ray (R.A.); miatapower list
> Subject: Re: octane boosters
>
> How many gallon tank does he carry around with him???
>
> Needs 3.5 gallons of water for every 10 gallons of gas used under
> boost??
>
> Larry
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: rmcelwee <(email redacted)>

The stock overflow bottle has been disconnected from the radiator, supply
and return hoses added to it, and then piped to a pump and the IC. Yes, it
would take longer to shed the temp but I would rather be at 40C for 10
minutes than 100C for 1 minute and then 35C for 9. Yes, with frequent
(speaking of real world here on my current system) 2k to redline bursts
(stomp on it, hit the brakes, immediately stomp on it again) the cooling
water (or at least the air temps) do go up 3C-5C each time. It takes a few
minutes of driving to get them back down. This does not happen during normal
"screwing around" driving, only during power runs after tuning.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Murray Richard" <(email redacted)>
To: "'rmcelwee'" <(email redacted)>; "'miatapower'"
<(email redacted)>
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 4:08 PM
Subject: RE: Sealed coolant system?


> How did you get the coolant to circulate through the stock radiator
coolant
> overflow bottle?
>
> I do not remember seeing any other liquid/air I/C with expansion tanks,
and
> the stock coolant overflow bottle only has one hose going to it.
>
> The delta-t will only be higher for the short time the additional mass
> requires to absorb the heat. The delta-t will then require longer to
> increase (coolant temp decrease), because the additional mass has to shed
> the additional absorbed BTU. Typically it takes longer to shed the BTU
than
> to absorb them because there is usually ambient heat under the hood to
deal
> with. With frequent bursts of boost the coolant temperature will keep
> increasing.
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: rmcelwee <(email redacted)>

I measured mine today. 1700 ml is what my '91 bottle holds.
----- Original Message -----=20
From: (email redacted)=20
To: Larry Alster=20
Cc: Bill Cardell ; miatapower list=20
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: octane boosters


In normal Wally driving, I don't empty the washer tank every tank of gas.=
. maybe every 3-4 tanks? Never gauged it that way. The washer bucket is j=
ust shy of a gallon, IIRC.

The nice thing is, when you get gas, buy a gallon of blue washer solvent =
and toss that in teh washer bucket, $0.99 and you're all set.

Wallyman



-----"Larry Alster" <(email redacted)> wrote: -----

To: "Bill Cardell" <(email redacted)>, "miatapower list" <miatapower@m=
ilewski.org>
From: "Larry Alster" <(email redacted)>
Date: 05/26/2004 01:34PM
Subject: Re: octane boosters

Lots??? :)

Seriously, how much water does he use??? Does a washer tank last me a tank
full of fuel??

Larry

White Knight 1991 Crystal White #99 CSP
Silver Bullet 1992 Silverstone #17 EM FM I+ Turbo
Honey B 1992 Sunburst Yellow
Whooosh 2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5

LowCountry Miata lowcountrymiataclub.net
Masters Miata
RAGS 074

----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Bill Cardell" <(email redacted)>
To: "miatapower list" <(email redacted)>
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 1:28 PM
Subject: RE: octane boosters


> How often are you under boost?
>
> Bill Cardell (TurboDog's Dad)
> (email redacted)
> Flyin' Miata
> 1-800-359-6957 (sales only)
> 970-242-3800 (tech support)
> flyinmiata.com
> flyinprotege.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Alster [mailto:(email redacted)]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 11:22 AM
> To: Bill Cardell; 'Ackley, Ray (R.A.)'; miatapower list
> Subject: Re: octane boosters
>
>
> How many gallon tank does he carry around with him???
>
> Needs 3.5 gallons of water for every 10 gallons of gas used under boost=
??
>
> Larry
>
> White Knight 1991 Crystal White #99 CSP
> Silver Bullet 1992 Silverstone #17 EM FM I+ Turbo
> Honey B 1992 Sunburst Yellow
> Whooosh 2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5
>
> LowCountry Miata lowcountrymiataclub.net
> Masters Miata
> RAGS 074
>
> ----- Original Message -----=20
> From: "Bill Cardell" <(email redacted)>
> To: "'Ackley, Ray (R.A.)'" <(email redacted)>; "Bill Cardell"
> <(email redacted)>; "miatapower list" <(email redacted)>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 1:17 PM
> Subject: RE: octane boosters
>
>
> > 35% water/gas.
> >
> > Bill Cardell (TurboDog's Dad)
> > (email redacted)
> > Flyin' Miata
> > 1-800-359-6957 (sales only)
> > 970-242-3800 (tech support)
> > flyinmiata.com
> > flyinprotege.com
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ackley, Ray (R.A.) [mailto:(email redacted)]
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 10:27 AM
> > To: Bill Cardell; miatapower list
> > Subject: RE: octane boosters
> >
> >
> > Do you mean he's running a 35% water/65% alcohol mix, or 35% of the
> > stuff he's throwing in the cylinder is water?
> >
> > Ray
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bill Cardell [mailto:(email redacted)]
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2004 12:07 PM
> > To: miatapower list
> > Subject: RE: octane boosters
> >
> > Steve W is up to 35% water and has dropped inj duty cycle from 75-80%
> > down
> > to 60% on his Tec'd FMII. With gas prices the way they are...
> >
> > Bill Cardell (TurboDog's Dad)
> > (email redacted)
> > Flyin' Miata
> > 1-800-359-6957 (sales only)
> > 970-242-3800 (tech support)
> > flyinmiata.com
> > flyinprotege.com
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tom Graham [mailto:(email redacted)]
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 8:35 PM
> > To: Bill Cardell; miatapower list
> > Subject: Re: octane boosters
> >
> >
> > Hi Bill,
> >
> > Kind of funny, good luck. When I made my own water injection in '98 m=
any
> > people on the powerlist told me it wouldn't work. I guess it does seem
> > weird, squirting water into an engine.
> >
> > As for leaning the mixture with WI. I pick up about 2 mpg around town=
by
> > leaning the mixture. The time I used the water injection without lean=
ing
> > the
> > mixture I noticed the A/F meter would read leaner. I misinterpreted t=
his
> > and
> > didn't get full performance. The water was acting like extra fuel and
> > promoting partial misfire. I had to back way off on the fuel and then
> > the
> > engine ran quiet, smooth and strong.
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> > > See the controversial info here
> > > .flyinmiata.com/tech/water_injection.php Many pissy peop=
le
> > on
> > > the miataforum about this, we had to pull down the DLL hp/tq
> > before/after.
> > >
> > > Bill Cardell (TurboDog's Dad)
> > > (email redacted)
> > > Flyin' Miata
> > > 1-800-359-6957 (sales only)
> > > 970-242-3800 (tech support)
> > > flyinmiata.com
> > > flyinprotege.com
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Tom Graham [mailto:(email redacted)]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 3:54 PM
> > > To: miatapower list
> > > Subject: Re: octane boosters
> > >
> > >
> > > Water injection. Run less gas and advance timing for 69 cents a
> > gallon.
> > >
> > > Tom
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > >
> > > Sunoco no longer sells 94 in NY. Is there any concensus on the use =
of
> > an
> > > octane booster?
> > > I'm picking up Lumpy from Toronto with her new motor and Autorotor =
on
> > > Memorial Day.
> > >
> > > Mark M.
> > >

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

Did someone say "Miata with ground clearance"?

y8spec.com/4x4/

No jack and no photoshop, that's honest to god sitting on it's own wheels.
Looks like 15" center of wheel to rear fender lip--About a 2.5" lift.
Truechoice sent out some long springs. Nice side-effect: no jack to
change the oil. Shane has since fixed that height problem.

Matt



Aleksandr Milewski said:
> At 2:16 PM -0700 on 5/27/04, David Colby commanded the electrons to
> create a missive titled "AWD Miata?":
> I was curious if anyone ever had thoughts of or even thought if it
> would be possible to make a miata AWD. I know a ton of work would
> have to go into it, but I was just thinking of the potential. Droool!
>
> And somehow Keith is strangely silent about the Ice Racer...
>
> --
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Aleksandr Milewski N6MOD
> (email redacted) milewski.org/
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

Question for you though... I'm guessing by "petrol" you mean you're in
Europe... and I'm guessing they use RON (not R+M/2) to denote octane
number.

RON of 95 is pretty reasonably close to R+M/2 92, but which is the number
for Toluene? 114 what?

Just want to make sure everyone's comparing apples to oranges or whatever.

Matt

Ian said:
> Yep. Basically the formula is:
>
> ((Octane of Petrol * (size of tank less amount of Toluen you are going to
> add) + (Amount of Toluene you are going to add * Octane of Toluene)) /
> Size
> of tank = Octane level you are going to get.
>
> Yes, my Gas was 95 and Toluene is 114, size of tank is 10.5 IMP or 12.7 US
> Gal size.
>
> For you it could be:
> ------------------------------------ Final Octane
> 1 Gal Toluene with 92 Octane gas = 93.73
> 2 Gal Toluene with 92 Octane gas = 95.45
> 3 Gal " " 92 " " = 97.20
> 4 Gal " " 92 " " = 98.93
> 5 Gal " " 92 " " = 100.66
>
> Hope that helps!
>
> Ian
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Quentin J Sarafinchan" <(email redacted)>
> To: <(email redacted)>
> Cc: <(email redacted)>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 4:33 PM
> Subject: Re: Toluene mix... rocket fuel?
>
>
>> I was really curious about this myself... So your formula really
>> is... (T & G can be either Gals or Litres). For me the best octane I
>> can noramlly get is 92, so I would replace the 95 with a 92
>>
>> ((95 * G) + (T * 114)) / (T + G) = Octane
>>
>> for me:
>> ((92 * G) + (T * 114)) / (T + G) = Octane
>>
>> Where your using Gas with an octane of 95 and Toluene of 114.
>>
>> -------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> My issues are with the fumes, I know I reacted to Xylene about 16
>> years ago. I got a chemical burn from it. Is there a way of doing
>> this safely? Or how about transportation, is Toluene easily
>> explosive? Any special handling considerations? Would this be
>> something you would carry with you, or better done at home?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Quentin
>>
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

Ground-up would be super pricey.

Was more thinking of CNC machining a raw head. But if they do vary that
much in the castings, maybe not such a good idea. You'd have to have one
hell of a reference point to make things work perfectly... maybe off a
spark plug hole or something.

Maybe someone should invest in a nice little MIM setup.
phillipsplastics.com/capabilities/metals/metal_injection.html

Matt

William Howell said:
> Are you talking about machining a head from the ground up, or using a CNC
> machine to port a Mazda head?
>
> CNC porting has been tried on many Honda heads, but the problem I've read
> about
> is core shift in the casting cores. Since we're dealing with thousandths
> of an
> inch, any core shift is going to cause problems. A few places I've dealt
> with
> will do CNC porting, but they recommend that the CNC process is followed
> by
> careful hand blending. The cost savings is not significant from what I
> have
> seen.
>
> Billy
>
>
> Quoting Maniacal Engineer <(email redacted)>:
>
>> What about the possibility of having a CNC machine program worked up? I
>> imagine it would take a little development time to get it where you
>> wanted
>> it, but once it's modeled up and set up, the per-unit cost would be
>> pretty
>> low. Plus if you had a CAD model of the head, you could do flow
>> simulations on it.
>>
>> Presumably the head work you have done now is repeatable to get the same
>> power gains, right? A CNC mill is the epitome of repeatable
>> machining...
>> and once it's set up, making changes here and there are a breeze.
>>
>> There's bound to be a few CAD junkies on the miata forums that'd be
>> willing to measure up and model a cylinder head for that purpose...
>> hell,
>> I'm one of them.
>>
>> Matt
>>
>> Bill Cardell said:
>> > Awful lot more precision machining for one thing. Very intricate
>> casting,
>> > followed by lots of machining, all based on a design that has
>> hundreds, if
>> > not thousands of hours invested in design work. Not enough hours in
>> the
>> > day
>> > or dollars in the budget to do it here.
>> >
>> > Bill Cardell (TurboDog's Dad)
>> > (email redacted)
>> > Flyin' Miata
>> > 1-800-359-6957 (sales only)
>> > 970-242-3800 (tech support)
>> > flyinmiata.com
>> > flyinprotege.com
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: Ian McCloghrie [mailto:(email redacted)]
>> > Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 11:40 AM
>> > To: Bill Cardell
>> > Cc: (email redacted)
>> > Subject: Re: Why no after market heads?
>> >
>> >
>> > On Jun 2, 2004 Bill Cardell wrote:
>> >> Plenty of options for worked over heads, but no market that would
>> >> support
>> >> the development of a new head.
>> >
>> > I remember you posting something a while back about the huge initial
>> > cost to develop a head -- what is it that makes a head more expensive
>> > in that regard than an intake manifold? Or is it just that there's
>> > not enough potential for improvement over the OEM 99 head?
>> >
>> > --Ian
>> >
>>
>
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)



Aww Hell, Just CNC it out of Billet. ;]

Mark


On Thu, 3 Jun 2004, Maniacal Engineer wrote:

> Ground-up would be super pricey.
>
> Was more thinking of CNC machining a raw head. But if they do vary that
> much in the castings, maybe not such a good idea. You'd have to have one
> hell of a reference point to make things work perfectly... maybe off a
> spark plug hole or something.
>
> Maybe someone should invest in a nice little MIM setup.
> phillipsplastics.com/capabilities/metals/metal_injection.html
>
> Matt
>
> William Howell said:
> > Are you talking about machining a head from the ground up, or using a CNC
> > machine to port a Mazda head?
> >
> > CNC porting has been tried on many Honda heads, but the problem I've read
> > about
> > is core shift in the casting cores. Since we're dealing with thousandths
> > of an
> > inch, any core shift is going to cause problems. A few places I've dealt
> > with
> > will do CNC porting, but they recommend that the CNC process is followed
> > by
> > careful hand blending. The cost savings is not significant from what I
> > have
> > seen.
> >
> > Billy
> >
> >
> > Quoting Maniacal Engineer <(email redacted)>:
> >
> >> What about the possibility of having a CNC machine program worked up? I
> >> imagine it would take a little development time to get it where you
> >> wanted
> >> it, but once it's modeled up and set up, the per-unit cost would be
> >> pretty
> >> low. Plus if you had a CAD model of the head, you could do flow
> >> simulations on it.
> >>
> >> Presumably the head work you have done now is repeatable to get the same
> >> power gains, right? A CNC mill is the epitome of repeatable
> >> machining...
> >> and once it's set up, making changes here and there are a breeze.
> >>
> >> There's bound to be a few CAD junkies on the miata forums that'd be
> >> willing to measure up and model a cylinder head for that purpose...
> >> hell,
> >> I'm one of them.
> >>
> >> Matt
> >>
> >> Bill Cardell said:
> >> > Awful lot more precision machining for one thing. Very intricate
> >> casting,
> >> > followed by lots of machining, all based on a design that has
> >> hundreds, if
> >> > not thousands of hours invested in design work. Not enough hours in
> >> the
> >> > day
> >> > or dollars in the budget to do it here.
> >> >
> >> > Bill Cardell (TurboDog's Dad)
> >> > (email redacted)
> >> > Flyin' Miata
> >> > 1-800-359-6957 (sales only)
> >> > 970-242-3800 (tech support)
> >> > flyinmiata.com
> >> > flyinprotege.com
> >> >
> >> > -----Original Message-----
> >> > From: Ian McCloghrie [mailto:(email redacted)]
> >> > Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2004 11:40 AM
> >> > To: Bill Cardell
> >> > Cc: (email redacted)
> >> > Subject: Re: Why no after market heads?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > On Jun 2, 2004 Bill Cardell wrote:
> >> >> Plenty of options for worked over heads, but no market that would
> >> >> support
> >> >> the development of a new head.
> >> >
> >> > I remember you posting something a while back about the huge initial
> >> > cost to develop a head -- what is it that makes a head more expensive
> >> > in that regard than an intake manifold? Or is it just that there's
> >> > not enough potential for improvement over the OEM 99 head?
> >> >
> >> > --Ian
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: rmcelwee <(email redacted)>

MessageI recently purchased an Optima D51R which is 25.5# (very heavy). I p=
ulled out a dead Mazda High Performance @ 18.5# and my wife runs a Wesco @ =
23.5#. I know this isn't exactly what you were looking for but since I had =
the numbers on a sheet of paper laying beside me I thought I'd give them to=
you. I'm pretty upset with my switch to the Optima (upset because of the w=
eight) but what am I going to do - I just spent $130 on it! I should have w=
ent your route and asked around about the weight first.=20



Robert McElwee and Red Beast
1991 10PSI Hotside JRSC
Link ECU, BSP A/W IC, 9:1 pistons
Over 350 lbs of "added lightness"
miata.cardomain.com/id/rmcelwee

Lightweight Miata Group:
autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/lightweightmiata/
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Andy R Towers=20
To: (email redacted)=20
Cc: (email redacted)=20
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 3:01 AM
Subject: [lightweightmiata] Replacement Battery


Just took my car off the jack stands today to do some basic gauge testing=
and.... the battery is dead again.
Second time I've drained it since putting it on the stands.
I'm currently doing the 48-hour 2-amp trickle, as I did last time, but I'=
m not going to be surprised if I find that I've killed the battery.
In the interest of saving weight, I thought I'd look for the lightest bat=
tery I could find.
I know I met someone before that autocrossed his ridiculously lightweight=
Miata and used a MOTORCYCLE battery, but I don't know the type or CCAs. BT=
W, he had no HVAC blower, radio, top, PS, etc.
So, what do all of you recommend? I recently ran into one that is 13lbs a=
nd fully sealed with no vent and can be mounted in any position. Wanted to =
see what all my fellow weight freaks run!
Thanks,
-----------Andymon
Yahoo! Groups Links

a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
groups.yahoo.com/group/lightweightmiata/
=20=20=20=20=20=20
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
(email redacted)
=20=20=20=20=20=20
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service=
.=20

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Ron Van Vliet <(email redacted)>

Looks exactly like mine did after a track day last fall. Time for the new cast downpipe, Wallyman. Pricey but effective. I made that switch and ran two days at the track recently with no difficulty.

Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: (email redacted)
To: (email redacted)
Sent: June 10, 2004 5:23 PM
Subject: Can it be fixed? Busted Downpipe


Well, got it all apart, and it's ugly. Looking for thoughts on if I can get this repaired. I had great luck getting the 97 fixed, but it hadn't sheered completely. $80 including a second O2 bung, and it's still going strong on another car. I'd rather not spend $400 on a new DP if I don't have to, racing harnesses are on the list first but if I must...

gravitydesign.net/saturn/yellowsub/images/img_4521.jpg
gravitydesign.net/saturn/yellowsub/images/img_4532.jpg

Some other Angles:

gravitydesign.net/saturn/yellowsub/images/img_4520.jpg
gravitydesign.net/saturn/yellowsub/images/img_4522.jpg
gravitydesign.net/saturn/yellowsub/images/img_4523.jpg
gravitydesign.net/saturn/yellowsub/images/img_4524.jpg
gravitydesign.net/saturn/yellowsub/images/img_4525.jpg
gravitydesign.net/saturn/yellowsub/images/img_4526.jpg
gravitydesign.net/saturn/yellowsub/images/img_4527.jpg
gravitydesign.net/saturn/yellowsub/images/img_4528.jpg
gravitydesign.net/saturn/yellowsub/images/img_4529.jpg
gravitydesign.net/saturn/yellowsub/images/img_4530.jpg
gravitydesign.net/saturn/yellowsub/images/img_4531.jpg

I'm thinking it can be fixed, but not sure about the bottom left mounting hole, awefully close.

Wallyman

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

That's not nearly as funny as my story. I had UPS ship four wheels with
tires across the country with cardboard on both sides of each and heavy
tape around the whole thing in several directions.

Three tires arrived and UPS received a piece of cardboard with a label and
told me the package had shipped and thus wouldn't let me submit a lost
package claim.

Several months later they figured it out. Now every time I plan to ship a
set of something in multiple packages, I insure each one for the cost of
the whole set. As for receving half the package of tires, you can submit
a claim for a "fall out" which just means that you got a package that lost
some of its contents.

Matt

Mark V. Mellinger said:
> I recently had someone send me 4 tires; 2 sets of 2 taped together, via
> UPS.
> Each set had 1 tracking #. I received the 2 pkgs, each with one tire.
> Someone at UPS had stolen 2 of the tires.
> Mark M.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <(email redacted)>
> To: <(email redacted)>
> Sent: Monday, June 14, 2004 11:47 AM
> Subject: LPC Cost to ship a pair of race tires - $13.30 with Online FedEx
>
>
>> In case anyone cares, just tape the pair together, and insured for $500
>> each 50 pound package is $13.30 when using FedEx online.. I think I get
>> a
>> 10% discount of counter rates, regardless, it was cheap. $26.60 for a
>> set
>> of 4 from DC to Michigan.
>>
>> Wallyman
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

Don't know if they make them for Miatas but...

frozenrotors.com/brakepads.shtml

Matt

Andy R. Towers said:
> Can one by pre-cryoed pads or do you have to cryo them after purchase?
> -----------Andymon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mel hoagland [mailto:(email redacted)]
> Sent: Thursday, June 24, 2004 9:07 AM
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: Combating brake dust
>
>
> Note to all who care: the best solution for combating brake dust: a
> Black Miata.
>
> Also, the cryogenically treated pads I use not only reduce brake dust to
> a minimum, they wear very little and are kind to rotors.
>
> Mel
>
> ...........................o~`o
> WHEEZY
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

www.jcwhitney.com
www.roadraceengineering.com
www.summitracing.com

Road Race also sels the silicone to connect them... They list stuff under
"DIY Hacker Tweaker Parts"

Matt


William Howell said:
> MessageHave you tried www.burnsstainless.com ? They carry stainless and
> aluminum tubing.
>
> Billy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lee Bohon [mailto:(email redacted)]
> Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 8:18 AM
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: Mandrel bent pipe source - any suggestions?
>
>
> I'm trying to find a supplier for various mandrel pipe sections. I'm
> wanting to piece together a custom turbo-to-intercooler tube; I'm coming
> up
> short finding any source online with a variety of bends. Basically,
> looking
> for the same sort of raw pipe material that FM and other companies use for
> their air tubes.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Lee Bohon
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: rmcelwee <(email redacted)>

I had some issues with the DLL graphs for some time and this is what I think
you should do:
- determine how much horsepower you think you should have
- get a gps and make sure the speed in DLL jives with the speed your car is
actually driving
- if the two speeds don't jive then adjust the tire size settings to make
them correct

Do I get exact HP readings? No. Do I feel confident that the HP readings it
gives me are +/- 5%? Yes. Using the numbers DLL gives me are a very useful
tuning tool. FWIW, even though my car weighs less than 1900 lbs I still use
the default weight in DLL. It won't matter if you get your tire size
correlated correctly. In other words, if you change the car's weight (in the
program) by 100# then it only affects the HP readings slightly. If you
change the tire size it will drastically change the readings. So, having the
tire size (speed vs speed) set correctly is much more important than the
weight.


Robert McElwee and Red Beast
1991 10PSI Hotside JRSC
Link ECU, BSP A/W IC, 9:1 pistons
Over 350 lbs of "added lightness"
miata.cardomain.com/id/rmcelwee

Lightweight Miata Group:
autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/lightweightmiata/

----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Smyth" <(email redacted)>
To: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 5:02 PM
Subject: Weight of a '96


Anyone know the average weight of a '96 MX5 with FMII, duals, style-bars,
spare-wheel & jack ? No power-steering and no aircon.

Also, what's the weight of the hardtop ?

I know there can be big differences depending on wheels, tyres etc.

Also, in DLL there's a variable that lets you specify the weight of the
contents of the car. Should this include the weight of the driver ?

Thanks

Frank

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

Clutch slipping?

What turbo is he running?

Matt

David Bennett said:
>
>> Has he done the basics? Compression test, leak down test, checked
>> plugs,
>> etc. etc?
>
> Yes, he's been there. He can find no obvious flaw in the system.
>
> It just doesn't seem possible that if you can maintain the boost that
> power would not rise. This is the 6th turbo they've had on the car
> trying to find one that can perform down low and still flow what is
> needed for 9000 rpm. It should be adequately sized and since it is a
> trifle larger than the last it should produce power up high.
>
> This is the only system that has behaved like this. All others have
> been predictable. The last turbo was the Disco Potato and it worked
> well but ran out of steam up high.
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

In May I got a ride in a turbocharged Miata, 99 Sport suspension, and 15"
T1-S. The driver was Marc Merlin and the track was Thunder Hill. He's
just about found the limit of that combination and it's the tires.

They howled and sang and he cornered at the hairy edge of adhesion. There
were times he had to slightly countersteer, but the car did hang on even
at the limit. Only when he crossed the adhesion limits were there sliding
issues. Just up to that point he was in slip. So I guess the point is,
you'll know the difference by the feel of the car. There was considerable
sideways movement when he reached "sliding". :)

As for braking zones, every second you're on the brakes is a second you're
not on the gas. I'm a relatively green track driver, but the big brakes
are what help me keep up with lots of other cars. I wait as long as
possible and brake as hard as I can without sliding (ok, so once I slid
straight off turn 9 into the dirt--no ABS) before a turn.

Matt

Jim Wilson said:
> Thanks Mel. I agree completely that seat time is the most important
> thing and that I far under perform relative to the car. I'm just trying
> to get some instructor type feedback without track time since I don't
> really have the time/money to do track events. My hard driving is done
> in some street areas around here that have places where I won't be
> endangering other people.
> Right now, what I'm trying to work on is braking and finding the
> right amount of slip/slide and being able to maintain it around the
> corner. My biggest room for improvement, as far as I can tell, is
> better transitioning from hard braking (I'm much smoother/faster braking
> earlier and using less brake longer than if I brake really hard for a
> short time before a turn). The other thing is my correction steering in
> that when I go past slipping and into a bigger oversteer/power slide
> with the rear coming around later in the turn as power increases is that
> I tend to either over correct or keep the correction in too long(I'm not
> sure which one) which makes the back end want to cross back over towards
> the turn center. Some of this I guess is the springs/shocks unloading
> but I'm never quite as smooth with it as if I simply did a half-donut
> turn around.
> Thanks again,
> Jim
>
>
> mel hoagland wrote:
>
>> Jim, Sounds like you're at a point now where more talk is not likely
>> to help. Seat time - that's all there is for it. Slipping and sliding
>> is good. Lots of stick means you're not at your limit. Rotating is
>> good - it's the best way around a corner. Sliding is also good, as
>> long as you're in control (no - it's not an oxymoron). As I've said
>> many time before, the best performance improvement you can make is not
>> to your hardware, it's driver skill. The best equipment is wasted in
>> the hands of an unskilled driver. The worst piece of shit car can
>> perform miracles in the hands of a great driver. The way to gauge your
>> improving abilities is not with empirical physical data gleaned from
>> an examination of your equipment, it's by comparing yourself to your
>> previous times and against your fellow drivers. If you're always at
>> the back of a pack of cars. you're driving faster than they are. If
>> there's always a lot of traffic immediately behind you, let them go by
>> and watch what they do. Don't spend a lot of time worrying about what
>> your tires are doing - if you're getting around the corners and you
>> can bring the speed down at the last minute for that hairpin turn,
>> your tires are doing fine. T1Ss are great tires for street and
>> learning on the track - they have a very wide margin of safety because
>> they don't have a lot of stick - you'll be able to read what they're
>> doing far better than a set of R compounds. A good set of sticky tires
>> will allow far higher limits, but give you almost no notice when
>> they're about to break loose (they shouldn't - an experienced driver
>> will know). Remember - above all, HAVE FUN. If you end the day shiny
>> side up, that's FUN. Mel
>> ...........................o~`o
>> WHEEZY
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Jim Wilson
>> To: Miata Power
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2004 10:52 AM
>> Subject: Sticking, Slipping & sliding (NPC)(NMC)
>> Experienced racers - I've been trying to improve my
>> driving and wanted
>> to see if there was a way to tell when I'm slipping and
>> using my tires
>> correctly. I'm running the T1S's and here are my
>> descriptions of the
>> ways the tires seem to talk to me.
>>
>> Case 1- not much difference in feel, sound is more of a
>> rumble, lower in
>> pitch than other conditions.
>> Case 2(fronts) - steering wheel feel is like tires went from
>> a rough to
>> smooth surface, not much noisier just less effort to turn
>> the wheel
>> (basically this occurs during turn-in and disappears)
>> Case 3 - car seems to slowly rotate and there is some squeal
>> but not a
>> lot of noise, the noise goes to a higher pitch than in case
>> 1
>> Case 4 - lots of noise, tires squealing like hell, car is
>> definitely
>> rotating
>>
>> My take is that case 1 is at the edge of sticking and
>> slipping, case 3
>> is slipping and case 4 is sliding. So case 3 seems to be
>> what I want
>> but it's hard for me to keep it at that point, I usually end
>> up going in
>> one direction or the other. I'll cover the transitions of
>> what my turns
>> generally feel like in another driving related post.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Jim
>>
>>
>>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

I think it's just common. In any car. My celica did the same thing. New
starter and a year later it croaked. Lather Rinse Repeat. Probably the
combination of the weak starters and weak batteries are what do this to
cars. Either way, it's a pain and a recurring one at that.

No suggestion other than get a starter with a long-term free-replacement
guarantee and you can practically replace them for free forever. I
haven't done one on a miata but it might be easy enough to change at the
store :)

Matt

mel hoagland said:
> Wheezy's starter has been balky from fairly early on. Somewhere around
> 50-70k I started having hot start troubles, but usually only after a short
> period of cool-down. In other words, the car would be hot, I'd park for 10
> minutes to half an hour and then she wouldn't start. If I tried right
> away, no problem. If I waited several hours, no problem. The quick fix was
> to carry a 1/2" breaker bar (I chose that size for mass and reach) and
> give the starter a good, hard tap. Worked every time. I considered rigging
> up a remote starter tapper, but bought a good, used starter instead. Now,
> at 83k the starter is acting up again. Characteristic of Miata starters?
> Characteristic of my driving style? Who knows? Wheezy's been parked in a
> garage for almost 2 years now, so I don't think it's environmental (I live
> within earshot of the ocean here in Maine, but only for the last 21
> months).
>
> My plan is to have my old starter rebuilt, install that one and have the
> second one rebuilt.
>
> Remember - above all, HAVE FUN.
>
> Mel
>
> ...........................o~`o
> WHEEZY
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Frank Mowry
> To: miata power
> Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2004 6:36 AM
> Subject: starting troubles revisited part II
>
>
> Now that my car is up for sale in the classifieds, I'd like to figure
> this problem out. I know a few of you have commented that it could be
> the battery, but I'm running an Optima red top that's only a year old so
> I doubt that's it. Occasionally the car simply acts like it is totally
> dead until I try 4-5 times and it finally acts like power has been
> restored. I replaced the ignition switch so that's not it (though the
> symptoms are the same).
>
> Someone mentioned the starter but that's pretty new too. I thought Ray
> or someone else mentioned a starter solenoid or something like that that
> gets worn out and/or gets worse with heat or on a hot start attempt.
>
> Can anyone point me in the right direction as to where to look?
>
> Frank
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

You've had the car sitting for over a year... maybe your battery is tired.

Matt

Jason C said:
> At higher RPMs, and a bit worse at heavier throttle
> openings. When I took the car for a shakedown at a
> mountain road, the tach was unreadable.
>
> The ground wire from bellhousing to the sheetmetal
> under the brake booster is there, although for
> expediency I mounted the eye between the dipstick and
> the plate thingy that sits between the engine an
> tranny.. which I think is painted. (The usual
> position is under the bolt head which makes it touch
> the bellhousing.) That might be it.
>
> When the tach jumps, I hear the a/c clutch cycling in
> and out, like the factory ECU is freaking out (I was
> getting bad misfire before I wired in the TEC).
>
> Any other ideas?
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

I spoke to RB at length on this since it's counterintuitive to some degree.

USUALLY a big front bar will induce understeer, but there is some issue
with the miata that requires more front roll stiffness. I think part of
that is to keep the outside front off the bumpstops and like Tom said, to
preserve the camber with relation to the road surface.

Consequently I've done track days "before" and "after" installing the
racing beat 1-1/4" front tubular bar on my '01 (stock rear bar) with no
other suspension changes from one track event to the next. Their claim is
it solves the snap-oversteer problem at low speeds. What I noticed at
Thunderhill was more that it kept the car from having abrupt bottoming on
hard corners with undulations in them. The steady-state roll was reduced
a little too.

As for understeer, the car did feel a LITTLE less "pushy" on smooth
corners. I can't really quantify that though.

Matt

Tom Reynolds said:
> 1. Could be but its not the only reason. A car can be running out of
> shock travel in the front sending its effective spring rate through the
> roof causing the understeer as the shock cannot keep the tire patch
> properly on the pavement.
>
> 2. It could cause LESS understeer, or more. Depending on the available
> grip (surface, tire, etc) the front of a stock miata rolls a lot, if it
> rolls more than the dialed in negative camber and negative camber gain
> through travel it will only be using the outer edge of the tire. The
> large front bar helps try to keep the tire from going positive in
> camber, thus using more of the contact patch. Too much front sway bar
> (rate) and you loose tire patch contact due to too much rate and the car
> breaks lose before it ever maximizes tire traction.
>
> Clear as mud?
>
>
>
> Tom
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Thai, Danny [mailto:(email redacted)]
> Sent: Friday, July 16, 2004 2:42 PM
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: Enlighten me on suspension (NPC)
>
> With all the talk about suspension set up, I am more confuse about sway
> bar set up. This is how I understand about how the cars handle (just
> from reading, not real world experience).
> Understeer: car is "push" at the corner; require more steering effort to
> turn.
> How to reduce understeer: stiffen the rear by increase spring rate,
> strut stiffness, tire pressure....
> Oversteer: car "kick out the tail" at corner, rear wheels lose traction.
> How to reduce oversteer: stiffen the front by increase spring rate,
> strut stiffness, tire pressure....
> A lot of track junkie installed big sway bar on the front and keep stock
> rear to go faster around corner. Here are my confusions.
> 1. Is my understanding above generally correct?
> 2. Is stiffen the front sway bar will cause more understeer or
> oversteer?
> That's it for now.
> Thank you,
> Danny
>
>
>
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: rmcelwee <(email redacted)>

Looks sweet! I can feel a head on collision coming (as I'm staring at the c=
omputer screen). One question, on the screenshots it says "running lean" - =
what is your indication of that? (novice tuner here!)



Robert McElwee and Red Beast
1991 10PSI Hotside JRSC
Link ECU, BSP A/W IC, 9:1 pistons
Over 350 lbs of "added lightness"
miata.cardomain.com/id/rmcelwee

Lightweight Miata Group:
autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/lightweightmiata/


----- Original Message -----=20
From: Ackley Ray RA=20
To: (email redacted)=20
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2004 3:12 PM
Subject: WinLink v1.00 Announcement


I wanted a few more days to do some final testing, but since the Gap is a=
pproaching very quickly I'm going to go ahead and "release" my baby now.

=20=20=20

WinLink is a real-time display for the Link ECU. It shows you real-time =
text and graph displays, including full wideband support for TechEdge Linea=
r and AEM units. On-the-fly zone editing as well as full-time togglealbe (=
if that's even a word) data logging, data tagging, and Last 30 Seconds logg=
ing. WinLink is integrated with DLL by being able to be configured to auto=
matically launch DLL on any logs saved. Real-time knock log window will sh=
ow you knock as it's happening and not when you're done logging. Etc, etc.=
Personally I think it's very useful. Wally has been my beta tester and c=
an't stop raving about it, although he always manages to find suggestions f=
or things for me to work on :-)

=20=20=20

WinLink is not meant to be a competitor to DataLogLab at this time. It w=
as designed to compliment DLL and fill existing real-time analysis function=
ality gaps that existed in our ECU world. I will continue to focus develop=
ment efforts on real-time "smart" tuning assistance tools rather than after=
-the-fact log analysis and power graphing for the foreseeable future.

=20=20=20

Screenshots (thanks Wally!) and download instructions can be found here:

deltasighk.org/miata/winlink/default.aspx

=20=20=20

Please excuse the crudeness of the web page as I've thrown it up in a bit=
of haste so everyone has an opportunity to play with it on their way down =
to/from the Gap. The program is much more polished than the web page :-)

=20=20=20

Enjoy!

=20=20=20

Ray Ackley

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: rmcelwee <(email redacted)>

That's a red Italia body kit. simpsondesign.net/italia.htm


Robert McElwee and Red Beast
1991 10PSI Hotside JRSC
Link ECU, BSP A/W IC, 9:1 pistons
Over 350 lbs of "added lightness"
miata.cardomain.com/id/rmcelwee

Lightweight Miata Group:
autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/lightweightmiata/



----- Original Message -----=20
From: FOXROX=20
To: (email redacted) ; (email redacted)=20
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2004 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: Who made top spot at Killboy? :)


Walt-
Roxannne likes the corvette style body kit on the red Miata, any idea on =
where you can get one?
----- Original Message -----=20
From: (email redacted)=20
To: (email redacted)=20
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2004 6:43 PM
Subject: Who made top spot at Killboy? :)=20


Oh, yeah, I'm FAMOUS now! :)

killboy.com

Even got some shots of me bored out of my mind following a clown drivin=
g in both lanes. I was so bored, in fact, that I was taking pictures of th=
at knucklehead crossing the yellow when they snapped my mugshot.. go figure!

Wallyman

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

Buy the Bailey from them direct. It's no big hassle--they're quick to
respond and shipping only takes 4-5 days to California. Pricing is decent
too.

baileymotorsport.co.uk/

Matt

(email redacted) said:
> Just in case there was any misunderstanding: I wasn't asking about Scott
> in order to bust him for anything (though he does still owe me about
> $20...).
>
> I remembered that he had been selling Baileys BOVs and I was hoping to put
> Quentin S. in touch with Scott so he could buy one if Scott had any left.
>
> Bill
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

I want my royalties! ;)

ok for everyone else... this is what I made for Jason.
y8s.com/celica_gone/air-oil/

Matt

Ackley, Ray (R.A.) said:
> After noticing copious amounts of oil going from my valve cover to my
> turbo inlet I fashioned one of those myself over the weekend. I used
> 1.5" pipe instead though due to space concerns. Hopefully this and the
> "turbo" PCV will improve my oil burning situation. Total cost was about
> $15 for the catch "can" whereas the greddy sells for like $100.
> Amazing..
>
> Ray
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason C [mailto:(email redacted)]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 2:11 AM
> To: (email redacted); (email redacted)
> Subject: Re: Valve cover stuffing how-to?
>
> I will use my old DIY catch can made
> from 2" PVC pipe, and add a 2nd one for the hotside of the engine.
> It's made of a 2" diameter x 6" long PVC pipe with glued on end caps, a
> hose
> barb on the side near the bottom, one on the top, and a drain (petcock)
> on
> the bottom. The inside is stuffed with a couple of plastic scrubbing
> pads.
>
> -Jason
>
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

I noticed when I checked the spunk that was left in my Celica's catch tank
it wasn't something I'd really get excited about putting in my oil system.
That stuff was greyish milky oily nastiness. Isn't the PCV comprised of
all the bad things that hide under your pistons? That includes water
vapor and other combustion by products that get in there and corrode
engine parts.

If it's "safe" goop in there then a simple Tee fitting either as part of
the return at the pan or in the line somewhere ought to work fine.

Matt

mel hoagland said:
> The turbo oil return line is not pressurized - it's a gravity return,
> which is why it must be routed downhill. I don't see any reason why you
> couldn't tap into it, other than lack of room to do so. And the fact that
> you'd have to keep the line coming off the valve cover away from the heat
> of the manifold and turbo - on second thought, I can think of at least two
> good reasons why this wouldn't work. After my turbo oil return cracked
> from the heat I replaced it with high performance truck line and wrapped
> it in fireshield - it would be tough to tap into. Later models had
> extended barbs for the turbo coolant connections - I don't know if the oil
> does too, but I would still wrap it in fireshield.
>
> Having fun yet? You guys have WAY too much free time . . .
>
> Mel
>
> ...........................o~`o
> WHEEZY
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Pat Borka
> To: Tim South ; (email redacted) ; (email redacted)
> Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 5:17 PM
> Subject: RE: Valve cover stuffing how-to?
>
>
> The line has pressure and would just blow oil right back into it.
>
>
>
> Maybe if you ran ut into the oil pan but even then you have oil pressure
> so you may still blow oil into it.
>
>
>
>
>
> Who knows.
>
>
>
>
>
> Pat Borka
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: Tim South [mailto:(email redacted)]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 5:02 PM
> To: (email redacted); (email redacted)
> Subject: Re: Valve cover stuffing how-to?
>
>
>
> How about making a catch can and draining it back to the pan by Y-ing
> into the turbo return line? Any problem with this, or are seperate
> lines necessary? Don't the OEM turbo cars do this in most instances?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: (email redacted)
>
> To: (email redacted)
>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2004 4:08 PM
>
> Subject: Re: Valve cover stuffing how-to?
>
>
>
> In a message dated 8/3/2004 10:13:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> (email redacted) writes:
>
> My understanding was that stuffing the baffle along with the use of
> a breather filter is the ideal option because it prevents the oil
> from actually leaving the valve cover, yet still provides a pressure
> venting effect.
>
> I kinda disagree. Reason being that once the baffles clog, NOTHING
> will get through (but of course you can replace the baffle material),
> and when the baffles are new, VAPOR will still carry oil out. I think
> the catch can is the best option, because it's easier to drain the can
> than it is to remove the cam cover to replace the baffle material.
> However, whatever works is useful. The IDEAL option would be a pump
> that would pull vapor out, cool it, and then return the oil to the
> crankcase.
>
> Jerry aka LGO
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

So who has the dyno plots of:

2001+ VVT vs. Non-VVT
This I read on the forum had an only-beneficial effect on N/A by raising
the power curve a few hp from 3000-5000 or rather filling in a dip to
bring it up to the pre-VVT shape. Curious about on boost.

2001+ VTCS Butterflies (not VICS)
members.aol.com/solomiata2/01intake2001.jpg
I guess "as is" or "stuck open" are the two options. Among the Celica/Mr2
guys, they have the same thing (TVIS) and usually during an engine build
will remove them altogether to elminate the obstruction in the intake.
Anyone have any dyno info like that?

Matt

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: rmcelwee <(email redacted)>

Pat, I notice that your problem looks like something caused by the ECU and =
not a loose connection. There is nothing random about it (like a short caus=
ed by vibration), it is happening every 0.164 seconds like clockwork. Altho=
ugh this may not be much help, it is all I can do for you (not much knowled=
ge when it comes to the Link ECU and especially the LAMBDA function).=20


Robert McElwee and Red Beast
1991 10PSI Hotside JRSC
Link ECU, BSP A/W IC, 9:1 pistons
Over 350 lbs of "added lightness"
miata.cardomain.com/id/rmcelwee

Lightweight Miata Group:
autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/lightweightmiata/


----- Original Message -----=20
From: Pat Borka=20
To: (email redacted)=20
Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004 10:23 AM
Subject: ECU wiring issue


In trying to diagnose my problems I decided to strip back the loom from t=
he ECU wires. Here is what I found. home.triad.rr.com/borka/wires.ht=
m=20

=20=20=20

You will notice both wires connect to a black and green wire which I thin=
k is a ground. I think one wire goes to the O2 sensor and the other goes to=
the TPS. I'm not sure yet though. I need to read up on it.=20

=20=20=20

There have many issues such as irregular water temp reading on the ECU, a=
nd the car sounds like it's hitting a rev limiter, or cuts out completely w=
hen you floor it fast. I've attached a log file as well for you to look at.=
=20

=20=20=20

Chuck Wills has witnessed the issue first hand so he may be able to offer=
some better insight.=20

=20=20=20

My questions are..

=20=20=20

Why was this done?

Do I want to undo it?

How do I undo it?

Could this explain why it's cutting out when I mat the gas?

=20=20=20

=20=20=20

Thanks,

=20=20=20

=20=20=20

Patrick Borka MCSE
Manager of Technical Services
(email redacted)
Phone: 336 808 3427
brij
5009 High Point Road Greensboro, NC 27407
336 854 2948 / fax 854 4209
www.brijconnects.com

=20=20=20

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

I can easily adjust the two knobs on top of my Advance Designs on all four
corners. I cut a nice arm-hole on the left so I can reach through the
metal shield---rounded the edges and everything. It's dark but I can get
to it.

Matt

Quentin J Sarafinchan said:
> This actually leads very well into a question I have about adjusting
> the Koni/Flex systems. On a M1 I've been told from the top you can
> get your fingers into to adjust the rear ones (Koni). On an M2, I've
> been told that thats not possible. So, what are the methods to
> adjusting the various shock systems, especially for M2, but also M1?
>
> Cheers,
> Quentin
>
>
> On Sat, 7 Aug 2004 16:11:16 -0600, "Tom Reynolds" wrote:
>
> I can go into great detail about my Flex like I have for so
> many other people in the past. Fortunately you have experience with
> other
> suspensions so it will be easier to explain.
>
>
>
> The compression dampening is right on, however nothing is
> going to change the fact I have 392/336 lbs springs on a 2100lbs car.
> The rebound
> dampening seems to be right on. I would like more when I upgrade
> spring rates
> for racing but its enough for the issued rates.
>
>
>
> The bias is for oversteer if you
> don’t tune it out with sway bars, at least for autocross. The nice
> thing
> is it seems to be perfect with an RB 1.125” on stiff setting. This
> allows
> me to run no rear bar giving me a lot of exit traction compared to
> even the
> 11mm rear bar.
>
>
>
> I’ve never driven the PSS so I cannot compare.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: (email redacted)
> [mailto:(email redacted)]
> Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004
> 3:51 PM
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: Re: What do you not like
> about Tein Flex on your Miata?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 8/7/2004 5:29:21
> PM Eastern Standard Time, (email redacted) writes:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> What did you not like about the PSS?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> REPLY:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Having gone from Koni/stock
> springs to Koni/GC 375/250 springs, I find the PSS way to soft.
> Additionally,
> the PSS rode too high until I cut 1 coil off the rear springs. The
> PSS is too jiggly, possibly underdamped, lots of wobble (no sways on
> now), it's better over certain bumps than the Koni/GCs, but still
> pretty bad
> over some other bumps.
>
>
>
>
>
> Personally, the only thing I LIKE
> about the Bilstein PSS is the appearance.
>
>
>
>
>
> As others have indeed LIKED the PSS
> I can only surmise that their suspensions were horrible before they
> bought the
> PSS, or the PSS I bought was a bad example.
>
>
>
>
>
> What most disappoints me is that I
> spent over $1000 for the PSS and M2 mount hardware, trying to get a
> better
> ride. The PSS advertising "..what the sport package should have
> been.." is just hype.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> However, EVERYTHING is subjective...
>
> Cheers,
> Quentin
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

It might not be a bad thing, but the buyer should be aware that it's not
what was spec'd in the group buy.

Actually I've never measured how far my engine moves... but I have been
looking for something like this to supplement my mazda comp engine and
diff mounts...

Matt

Tom Reynolds said:
> I'm not understanding why that’s a bad thing?
>
> Many racers use the solid turnbuckle style, I would imagine the 3/4"
> travel would get ride of "punishment" the solid ones create.
>
>
>
> Tom
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Maniacal Engineer [mailto:(email redacted)]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 2:24 PM
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: Re: engine torque dampener
>
> except one problem...
>
> the travel is +/- 3/8" (total 3/4"), not +/-3.75"!
>
> ingallseng.com/parts/stiffy.htm
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Jerry Malsam" <(email redacted)>

And how would one of them there tranny braces affect the equation? Anybody
got a chassis dyno, an engine hoist, and some free time? I smell a
GrassRoots Motorsports article...

--Jerry
'97 FM2 @ 15psi
'92 Track Rat @ 0psi

----- Original Message -----
From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>
To: "Tom Reynolds" <(email redacted)>
Cc: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 4:33 PM
Subject: RE: engine torque dampener


> It might not be a bad thing, but the buyer should be aware that it's not
> what was spec'd in the group buy.
>
> Actually I've never measured how far my engine moves... but I have been
> looking for something like this to supplement my mazda comp engine and
> diff mounts...
>
> Matt
>
> Tom Reynolds said:
> > I'm not understanding why that's a bad thing?
> >
> > Many racers use the solid turnbuckle style, I would imagine the 3/4"
> > travel would get ride of "punishment" the solid ones create.
> >
> >
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Maniacal Engineer [mailto:(email redacted)]
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 2:24 PM
> > To: (email redacted)
> > Subject: Re: engine torque dampener
> >
> > except one problem...
> >
> > the travel is +/- 3/8" (total 3/4"), not +/-3.75"!
> >
> > ingallseng.com/parts/stiffy.htm
> >

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: rmcelwee <(email redacted)>

Thanks! I'll try a comp test at our club's next tech day.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Regie L Bryant" <(email redacted)>
To: "rmcelwee" <(email redacted)>
Cc: "miatapower" <(email redacted)>
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2004 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: Burning oil???


>
>
>
>
> Basically rule out all the possible causes. Two major ones are leaks or
it
> is getting in the combustion chamber and getting burned. It can get in
the
> combustion chamber from the intake (via PCV), leak down from the cams via
a
> valve seal, come up past the piston rings, or come across a bad head
gasket
> from the head oil galleys. That's it, AFAIK.
>
> I assume you have made sure it is not leaking out by getting under it and
> looking, and also by parking it over either a clean floor or fresh
> cardboard for a few days.
>
> If it isn't dripping out somewhere, then do a compression test. If the
> rings and head gasket are good, do a leakdown test and see if it is coming
> off the head through the valve seals.
>
> Regie
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Maniacal Engineer" <(email redacted)>

Rene,

Here's a trick I learned with my ball 'n spring I used on my AllTrac: use
a brake bleed vac pump with a gauge on it. You'll get a pretty reasonably
accurate "max boost" reading that way.

Matt

René Smeenk said:
> Max boost is reasonably easy to set (in my case at 1.45-1.5 bar) by making
> a
> few testruns, and from about 6000rpm the boost slowly falls back to 1.3
> bar
> at the revlimit of 7400rpm which is just how I want it, not to put too
> much
> strain on the engine in the high revs.