Miatapower List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Daniel Godelfer" <(email redacted)>

Well I yanked everything out of the head today. Sort of a Pain =
and the ass. The valve spring compressor I had did not like my head, =
But I got it to work.. here are some questions.. =20

I have heard about VOLVO valve springs. Those are for 1.8's right? Any =
valve springs available for the 1.6?

What should I do besides clean the valves, and all the carbon out of the =
head. I was going to Port match it but I don't want to Screw it up.. I =
will save that for a professional later....(Mark P maybe, or whoever =
does his heads.) Anything else I should do while it is out. I was =
thinking about polishing the exhaust ports and. Should I polish the =
combustion chamber? =20

There was some sort of port or something in the intake port that I could =
not figure what it is. Am I crazy and is this going to be something =
very simple on what it is.

I marked all of the cam journal caps as not to get them mixed. I kept =
all of the valves, springs, and retainers together and marked which port =
they go on. Is it important that the keepers be kept together. My =
guess would be no, but I want to make sure before I throw them in a bag =
so they don't get lost.

Thanks.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Daniel Godelfer" <(email redacted)>

OK.......HELLO CAPTAIN OBVIOUS!!! Those mysterious ports was the Valve =
Guide. DOOOOOOPH. I had just seen a glimpse of them and went to the =
computer. I took another look and realized quickly what they were. So =
captain obvious visited me today..
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Daniel Godelfer=20
To: (email redacted)=20
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2001 9:18 PM
Subject: Disassembled head today...questions???


Well I yanked everything out of the head today. Sort of a =
Pain and the ass. The valve spring compressor I had did not like my =
head, But I got it to work.. here are some questions.. =20

I have heard about VOLVO valve springs. Those are for 1.8's right? =
Any valve springs available for the 1.6?

What should I do besides clean the valves, and all the carbon out of =
the head. I was going to Port match it but I don't want to Screw it =
up.. I will save that for a professional later....(Mark P maybe, or =
whoever does his heads.) Anything else I should do while it is out. I =
was thinking about polishing the exhaust ports and. Should I polish the =
combustion chamber? =20

There was some sort of port or something in the intake port that I =
could not figure what it is. Am I crazy and is this going to be =
something very simple on what it is.

I marked all of the cam journal caps as not to get them mixed. I kept =
all of the valves, springs, and retainers together and marked which port =
they go on. Is it important that the keepers be kept together. My =
guess would be no, but I want to make sure before I throw them in a bag =
so they don't get lost.

Thanks.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)


In a message dated 9/24/01 8:06:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time, (email redacted)
writes:

<< I marked all of the cam journal caps as not to get them mixed. I kept all
of the valves, springs, and retainers together and marked which port they go
on. Is it important that the keepers be kept together. My guess would be
no, but I want to make sure before I throw them in a bag so they don't get
lost.
>>
Caps, valves, and lifters yes. Springs not so important, retainers no. As a
general rule its parts that wear together (such as bearing surfaces, valve
and seat and guide, lifter and cam lobe, etc.) that need to stay together.
Springs and retainers have much greater tolerances for fit.

Sheldon

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Mark Peugeot <(email redacted)>



I will be offering a head porting special.

$500 for a full port and polish. $650 includes a valve job, shims for
solid lifter heads extra.

Allow 3-4 weeks for a completed head to be returned.

I hope to start stocking some heads so that I can do exchanges soon. Core
charge of $250 per head would apply.

You don't have to keep the keepers organized. I do carry a 1.6 and 1.8
valve spring kit but it is kinda high dollar because it includes buckets,
retainers, springs, and shims, although likely you will need additional
shims as well.

Yes, you should polish the combustion chamber. Now is the time, while you
have the head off to do what you want.

Mark



On Mon, 24 Sep 2001, Daniel Godelfer wrote:

> Well I yanked everything out of the head today. Sort of a
> Pain and the ass. The valve spring compressor I had did not like my
> head, But I got it to work.. here are some questions..
>
> I have heard about VOLVO valve springs. Those are for 1.8's right?
> Any valve springs available for the 1.6?
>
> What should I do besides clean the valves, and all the carbon out of
> the head. I was going to Port match it but I don't want to Screw it
> up.. I will save that for a professional later....(Mark P maybe, or
> whoever does his heads.) Anything else I should do while it is out.
> I was thinking about polishing the exhaust ports and. Should I polish
> the combustion chamber?
>
> There was some sort of port or something in the intake port that I
> could not figure what it is. Am I crazy and is this going to be
> something very simple on what it is.
>
> I marked all of the cam journal caps as not to get them mixed. I kept
> all of the valves, springs, and retainers together and marked which
> port they go on. Is it important that the keepers be kept together.
> My guess would be no, but I want to make sure before I throw them in a
> bag so they don't get lost.
>
> Thanks.
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Mel Hoagland" <(email redacted)>

Daniel,

Aside from really appreciating the stick-to-it-iveness and =
single-minded-ness-of-purpose the subject line suggests, I don't have =
any answers for you, other than to say I hope you wrote down where all =
the parts go.

You da man.

__________o~`o
Mel Hoagland
Hemisphere Racing Team
Wheezy 96 black FMII/III vrrooommmm

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Ralph" <(email redacted)>

A few notes. This is just to help "clean up" a head, not port it out.

You could read 20 books and still not know what you're doing. Keep in =
mind that sanding drum scratches are ok. I use a medium and fine grit. =
The only real chrome-like polishing I've seen is in exhaust ports and =
that is up for debate.

If you do mods to anything do one little simple thing to each cylinder. =
Dont hog on one for an hour and then go to another. When you are =
tired, quit. Use old valves when cleaning up the chamber so you don't =
mung up the seats. Have the head cleaned when you are done.

Here's a little list of things you can do without hurting anything. =
None of these things will really hurt a turbo car. I wonder if they =
really help a turbo car at all...


1. Gasket matching. Only really effective if you do the head and =
manifold. =20
2. Cleaning up the dingleberries in the runners. If you are having a =
pro work on the head later he might prefer an unmolested head to start =
with... You can use 3/4" sanding drum on the start of the ports and use =
a Dremel sanding drum to clean a little farther in.
3. Knife the dividers in the runners.=20
4. If a turbo, smooth out the intake port ramp just inside the head.
5. unshroud the valves. Some people say this doesn't help but we got =
some big flow jumps after this.
6. Clean up the high spots in the chamber so that it blends in smooth =
with the top ot the seats. Lots of crap to do in the chamber.
7. CC the chambers.

Ralph Doehrmann
Sunburst Yellow=20
BB Garrett, Link, FM, BEGI
(email redacted)

.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Daniel Godelfer" <(email redacted)>

I dont plan to port the head realy. I am going to leave that to a =
professional. I will have an extra head to do that with. I am probably =
just going to polish and smooth, but not really remove any material. =
Thanks=20
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Ralph=20
To: (email redacted)=20
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: Disassembled head today...questions???


A few notes. This is just to help "clean up" a head, not port it out.

You could read 20 books and still not know what you're doing. Keep in =
mind that sanding drum scratches are ok. I use a medium and fine grit. =
The only real chrome-like polishing I've seen is in exhaust ports and =
that is up for debate.

If you do mods to anything do one little simple thing to each =
cylinder. Dont hog on one for an hour and then go to another. When =
you are tired, quit. Use old valves when cleaning up the chamber so you =
don't mung up the seats. Have the head cleaned when you are done.

Here's a little list of things you can do without hurting anything. =
None of these things will really hurt a turbo car. I wonder if they =
really help a turbo car at all...


1. Gasket matching. Only really effective if you do the head and =
manifold. =20
2. Cleaning up the dingleberries in the runners. If you are having a =
pro work on the head later he might prefer an unmolested head to start =
with... You can use 3/4" sanding drum on the start of the ports and use =
a Dremel sanding drum to clean a little farther in.
3. Knife the dividers in the runners.=20
4. If a turbo, smooth out the intake port ramp just inside the head.
5. unshroud the valves. Some people say this doesn't help but we got =
some big flow jumps after this.
6. Clean up the high spots in the chamber so that it blends in smooth =
with the top ot the seats. Lots of crap to do in the chamber.
7. CC the chambers.

Ralph Doehrmann
Sunburst Yellow=20
BB Garrett, Link, FM, BEGI
(email redacted)

.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Mark Peugeot <(email redacted)>


>
> 1. Gasket matching. Only really effective if you do the head and manifold.

Only on the intake side really...

> 2. Cleaning up the dingleberries in the runners. If you are having a
> pro work on the head later he might prefer an unmolested head to start
> with... You can use 3/4" sanding drum on the start of the ports and
> use a Dremel sanding drum to clean a little farther in.

Leave the bowls and short side radius alone unless you are confident that
you know what you are doing.

> 3. Knife the dividers in the runners.

pretty easy to do.

> 4. If a turbo, smooth out the intake port ramp just inside the
> head.

another easy one.

> 5. unshroud the valves. Some people say this doesn't help but we got
> some big flow jumps after this.

Yes, this is important, but try not to mess up the shape of the chamber!

> 6. Clean up the high spots in the chamber so that it blends in smooth with the
> top ot the seats. Lots of crap to do in the chamber.

There is even more work to do in the bowls.

>7. CC the chambers.

Good advice... but then again Ralph is a mad scientist.

Mark

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Ralph" <(email redacted)>


Yeah. What I'm talking about is just making the surface smoother. Not
removing material. Try to stay with the general shape of things. There's a
ton of crap going on in the bowl . The thing is tuned for velocity and
angle. There is even a venturi shape to the Miata bowl. Lots of ways to
screw it up if running NA. There are places that need material added. And
one runner is usually smaller than the others..

Tom now has the drawings and pics of the new idea. We talked on the phone
for quite a while It's a radical departure from the norm and far more
dificult to do. He's as excited as a little girl but it makes traditional
porting look easy and nobody in their right mind would do it for hire. I
will say that there is a tremendous amount of measuring involved. I'll be
using a bunch of traditional tricks to do the measuring and will share that
with the group. It really requires computer modeling and calculus to do
correctly. Just a fun project. Probably won't help my turbo at all...
...If you were racing 1000 chariots through a parting in the Red Sea and
there was a telephone pole in the middle.... And the horses are distracted
by the pole... what would you do?

If you are really an NA air flow power junkie just talk to Gibb.


Ralph Doehrmann
Sunburst Yellow
BB Garrett, Link, FM, BEGI
(email redacted)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Peugeot" <(email redacted)>
To: "Ralph" <(email redacted)>
Cc: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: Disassembled head today...questions???


> >
> > 1. Gasket matching. Only really effective if you do the head and
manifold.
>
> Only on the intake side really...
>
> > 2. Cleaning up the dingleberries in the runners. If you are having a
> > pro work on the head later he might prefer an unmolested head to start
> > with... You can use 3/4" sanding drum on the start of the ports and
> > use a Dremel sanding drum to clean a little farther in.
>
> Leave the bowls and short side radius alone unless you are confident that
> you know what you are doing.
>
> > 3. Knife the dividers in the runners.
>
> pretty easy to do.
>
> > 4. If a turbo, smooth out the intake port ramp just inside the
> > head.
>
> another easy one.
>
> > 5. unshroud the valves. Some people say this doesn't help but we got
> > some big flow jumps after this.
>
> Yes, this is important, but try not to mess up the shape of the chamber!
>
> > 6. Clean up the high spots in the chamber so that it blends in smooth
with the
> > top ot the seats. Lots of crap to do in the chamber.
>
> There is even more work to do in the bowls.
>
> >7. CC the chambers.
>
> Good advice... but then again Ralph is a mad scientist.
>
> Mark
>
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Frank Mowry <(email redacted)>


>>
>> 1. Gasket matching. Only really effective if you do the head and
manifold.

>Only on the intake side really...

Why? You're still limiting exhaust to the turbo if you impeded the exit
from the head by jamming it into smaller exhaust runners on the
manifold.

Let's see...port head to flow more air and then bottleneck it by not
letting it out? Please explain. A tubular manifold benefits by using
larger runners so why wouldn't you try and mimic those flow
characteristics by opening up a cast manifold?

Frank

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Eric Schieb" <(email redacted)>


springs:

I hope that someone better than me answers your mail, but based on my knowledge:

1.6 and 1.8 springs are very similar

In fact I believe the '94 1.8 springs are near duplicates of the 1.6 intake and
the '99 springs are near duplicates of the 1.6 exhaust. Therefore Volvo springs (if you want
them) should fit any year.

Eric Schieb

>>> "Daniel Godelfer" <(email redacted)> 09/24/01 10:18PM >>>
Well I yanked everything out of the head today. Sort of a Pain and the ass. The valve spring compressor I had did not like my head, But I got it to work.. here are some questions..

I have heard about VOLVO valve springs. Those are for 1.8's right? Any valve springs available for the 1.6?

What should I do besides clean the valves, and all the carbon out of the head. I was going to Port match it but I don't want to Screw it up.. I will save that for a professional later....(Mark P maybe, or whoever does his heads.) Anything else I should do while it is out. I was thinking about polishing the exhaust ports and. Should I polish the combustion chamber?

There was some sort of port or something in the intake port that I could not figure what it is. Am I crazy and is this going to be something very simple on what it is.

I marked all of the cam journal caps as not to get them mixed. I kept all of the valves, springs, and retainers together and marked which port they go on. Is it important that the keepers be kept together. My guess would be no, but I want to make sure before I throw them in a bag so they don't get lost.

Thanks.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Ron Van Vliet" <(email redacted)>


If memory serves, the inlets to the BEGI manifold are larger than the
exhaust ports on the head. I could be wrong -- it's been a while, but I
could swear the speed shop that ported my head had to hog out the exhaust
ports to match, not vice versa...?

Ron

----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Mowry" <(email redacted)>
To: "miata power" <(email redacted)>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: Disassembled head today...questions???


>
> >>
> >> 1. Gasket matching. Only really effective if you do the head and
> manifold.
>
> >Only on the intake side really...
>
> Why? You're still limiting exhaust to the turbo if you impeded the exit
> from the head by jamming it into smaller exhaust runners on the
> manifold.
>
> Let's see...port head to flow more air and then bottleneck it by not
> letting it out? Please explain. A tubular manifold benefits by using
> larger runners so why wouldn't you try and mimic those flow
> characteristics by opening up a cast manifold?
>
> Frank
>
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)


In a message dated 9/25/01 3:35:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
(email redacted) writes:

<< If memory serves, the inlets to the BEGI manifold are larger than the
exhaust ports on the head. I could be wrong -- it's been a while, but I
could swear the speed shop that ported my head had to hog out the exhaust
ports to match, not vice versa...?
>>
On mine, some of the manifold ports were smaller than the gasket. Opened
them up the match the gasket, or touch more.

Sheldon

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Mark Peugeot <(email redacted)>



Well you don't want to quite match it, it is better to leave a lip as it
will act as an anti-reversion device. I am not saying not to port it, but
unless you have an A/R Header you are wasting your time matching it. You
want a small lip to help prevent reversion... Yes, bigger is often better,
but reducing reversion is even more important, especially on a cast
manifold where design issues limit reversion control.

Mark



On Tue, 25 Sep 2001, Frank Mowry wrote:

>
> >>
> >> 1. Gasket matching. Only really effective if you do the head and
> manifold.
>
> >Only on the intake side really...
>
> Why? You're still limiting exhaust to the turbo if you impeded the exit
> from the head by jamming it into smaller exhaust runners on the
> manifold.
>
> Let's see...port head to flow more air and then bottleneck it by not
> letting it out? Please explain. A tubular manifold benefits by using
> larger runners so why wouldn't you try and mimic those flow
> characteristics by opening up a cast manifold?
>
> Frank
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Ron Van Vliet" <(email redacted)>

While we're on the subject, I have a 1.6 head with low miles on it that =
has a significant layer of carbon on the valves and surrounding them. =
What's the easiest way to clean this up without potentially damaging the =
head?

Ron=20
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Ralph=20
To: (email redacted)=20
Sent: September 25, 2001 6:36 AM
Subject: Re: Disassembled head today...questions???


A few notes. This is just to help "clean up" a head, not port it out.

You could read 20 books and still not know what you're doing. Keep in =
mind that sanding drum scratches are ok. I use a medium and fine grit. =
The only real chrome-like polishing I've seen is in exhaust ports and =
that is up for debate.

If you do mods to anything do one little simple thing to each =
cylinder. Dont hog on one for an hour and then go to another. When =
you are tired, quit. Use old valves when cleaning up the chamber so you =
don't mung up the seats. Have the head cleaned when you are done.

Here's a little list of things you can do without hurting anything. =
None of these things will really hurt a turbo car. I wonder if they =
really help a turbo car at all...


1. Gasket matching. Only really effective if you do the head and =
manifold. =20
2. Cleaning up the dingleberries in the runners. If you are having a =
pro work on the head later he might prefer an unmolested head to start =
with... You can use 3/4" sanding drum on the start of the ports and use =
a Dremel sanding drum to clean a little farther in.
3. Knife the dividers in the runners.=20
4. If a turbo, smooth out the intake port ramp just inside the head.
5. unshroud the valves. Some people say this doesn't help but we got =
some big flow jumps after this.
6. Clean up the high spots in the chamber so that it blends in smooth =
with the top ot the seats. Lots of crap to do in the chamber.
7. CC the chambers.

Ralph Doehrmann
Sunburst Yellow=20
BB Garrett, Link, FM, BEGI
(email redacted)

.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Mark Peugeot <(email redacted)>



Carb Cleaner should do the trick.

Mark


On Tue, 25 Sep 2001, Ron Van Vliet wrote:

> While we're on the subject, I have a 1.6 head with low miles on it that has a significant layer of carbon on the valves and surrounding them. What's the easiest way to clean this up without potentially damaging the head?
>
> Ron
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ralph
> To: (email redacted)
> Sent: September 25, 2001 6:36 AM
> Subject: Re: Disassembled head today...questions???
>
>
> A few notes. This is just to help "clean up" a head, not port it out.
>
> You could read 20 books and still not know what you're doing. Keep in mind that sanding drum scratches are ok. I use a medium and fine grit. The only real chrome-like polishing I've seen is in exhaust ports and that is up for debate.
>
> If you do mods to anything do one little simple thing to each cylinder. Dont hog on one for an hour and then go to another. When you are tired, quit. Use old valves when cleaning up the chamber so you don't mung up the seats. Have the head cleaned when you are done.
>
> Here's a little list of things you can do without hurting anything. None of these things will really hurt a turbo car. I wonder if they really help a turbo car at all...
>
>
> 1. Gasket matching. Only really effective if you do the head and manifold.
> 2. Cleaning up the dingleberries in the runners. If you are having a pro work on the head later he might prefer an unmolested head to start with... You can use 3/4" sanding drum on the start of the ports and use a Dremel sanding drum to clean a little farther in.
> 3. Knife the dividers in the runners.
> 4. If a turbo, smooth out the intake port ramp just inside the head.
> 5. unshroud the valves. Some people say this doesn't help but we got some big flow jumps after this.
> 6. Clean up the high spots in the chamber so that it blends in smooth with the top ot the seats. Lots of crap to do in the chamber.
> 7. CC the chambers.
>
> Ralph Doehrmann
> Sunburst Yellow
> BB Garrett, Link, FM, BEGI
> (email redacted)
>
> .
>