Miatapower List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Mark <(email redacted)>

Hi guys,

Just de-Autorotored a couple of days ago (naturally asparated again) and
forgot to put in the correct gasket on the idle air bypass (at the
bottom of the throttle body?). I just had a solid gasket there that
goes with a blind plate for the Autorotor setup. This resulted in a car
that would not idle cold. I would have to keep my foot on the gas until
she got warm. Once warm she would idle at 500 rpm!

Remembered the black "O-Ring material" gasket that was stock and put it
in. Now she idles at 1900 to 2100 RPM surging every second or so. As I
tighten down on the idle adjustment the surging slows and the idle
eventually stabilizes at 2000 RPM as I bottom out the screw.

What do you think? I could not find a vacuum leak and my J+S shows rich
lean just as it should. I disconnected my boost pump and it made no
difference. Adjusting my drivers side mirror did not help either.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Mark S. Allen

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Ray Ayala <(email redacted)>

At 10:55 PM 11/18/98 -0600, Mark wrote:
>
>Hi guys,
>
>Just de-Autorotored a couple of days ago (naturally asparated again) and
>forgot to put in the correct gasket on the idle air bypass (at the
>bottom of the throttle body?). I just had a solid gasket there that
>goes with a blind plate for the Autorotor setup. This resulted in a car
>that would not idle cold. I would have to keep my foot on the gas until
>she got warm. Once warm she would idle at 500 rpm!
>
>Remembered the black "O-Ring material" gasket that was stock and put it
>in. Now she idles at 1900 to 2100 RPM surging every second or so. As I
>tighten down on the idle adjustment the surging slows and the idle
>eventually stabilizes at 2000 RPM as I bottom out the screw.
>
>What do you think? I could not find a vacuum leak and my J+S shows rich
>lean just as it should. I disconnected my boost pump and it made no
>difference. Adjusting my drivers side mirror did not help either.
>
>Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.


Any chance you forgot to plug the wires into the IAC? - Ray

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Dave Zenz" <(email redacted)>

Mark,

Have you found anything yet? I've also just de-Autorotored, and my
idle sits around 1800 rpm, and surges when I come to a stop.

Dave Z.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: (email redacted)
> [mailto:(email redacted)]On Behalf Of Mark
> Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 10:55 PM
> To: MiataPower
> Subject: 1900-2100 idle surge
>
>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> Just de-Autorotored a couple of days ago (naturally asparated again) and
> forgot to put in the correct gasket on the idle air bypass (at the
> bottom of the throttle body?). I just had a solid gasket there that
> goes with a blind plate for the Autorotor setup. This resulted in a car
> that would not idle cold. I would have to keep my foot on the gas until
> she got warm. Once warm she would idle at 500 rpm!
>
> Remembered the black "O-Ring material" gasket that was stock and put it
> in. Now she idles at 1900 to 2100 RPM surging every second or so. As I
> tighten down on the idle adjustment the surging slows and the idle
> eventually stabilizes at 2000 RPM as I bottom out the screw.
>
> What do you think? I could not find a vacuum leak and my J+S shows rich
> lean just as it should. I disconnected my boost pump and it made no
> difference. Adjusting my drivers side mirror did not help either.
>
> Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
>
> Mark S. Allen
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Manuel Patino <(email redacted)>

At 09:51 AM 11/20/98 -0800, Beau Randall wrote:
>
>
> You guys might try to reset your ECUs if you haven't already. The
>Autorotor may have seriously wreaked havoc on the ECU's learning mode. -
>Beau
>

I'm very interested in learning as much as possible about the programmable
ECU's. I'm wondering how the Autorotor (or any other) installation could
affect the function of the ECU. My short foray into F/I has taught me that
problems lurk around every bend. I'm considering the purchase of a Link ECU
and I want to know as much about what can go wrong with it and how/if it
can be corrected. Is there a specific forum where these devices are discussed?

Thanks,

Manuel Patino

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Beau Randall <(email redacted)>


You guys might try to reset your ECUs if you haven't already. The
Autorotor may have seriously wreaked havoc on the ECU's learning mode. -
Beau


On Thu, 19 Nov 1998, Dave Zenz wrote:

>
> Mark,
>
> Have you found anything yet? I've also just de-Autorotored, and my
> idle sits around 1800 rpm, and surges when I come to a stop.
>
> Dave Z.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: (email redacted)
> > [mailto:(email redacted)]On Behalf Of Mark
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 10:55 PM
> > To: MiataPower
> > Subject: 1900-2100 idle surge
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi guys,
> >
> > Just de-Autorotored a couple of days ago (naturally asparated again) and
> > forgot to put in the correct gasket on the idle air bypass (at the
> > bottom of the throttle body?). I just had a solid gasket there that
> > goes with a blind plate for the Autorotor setup. This resulted in a car
> > that would not idle cold. I would have to keep my foot on the gas until
> > she got warm. Once warm she would idle at 500 rpm!
> >
> > Remembered the black "O-Ring material" gasket that was stock and put it
> > in. Now she idles at 1900 to 2100 RPM surging every second or so. As I
> > tighten down on the idle adjustment the surging slows and the idle
> > eventually stabilizes at 2000 RPM as I bottom out the screw.
> >
> > What do you think? I could not find a vacuum leak and my J+S shows rich
> > lean just as it should. I disconnected my boost pump and it made no
> > difference. Adjusting my drivers side mirror did not help either.
> >
> > Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Mark S. Allen
> >
> >
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Beau Randall <(email redacted)>


I was actually referring to the stock ECU, which alters the fuel map
slightly depending on your driving style. - Beau

On Fri, 20 Nov 1998, Manuel Patino wrote:

> At 09:51 AM 11/20/98 -0800, Beau Randall wrote:
> >
> >
> > You guys might try to reset your ECUs if you haven't already. The
> >Autorotor may have seriously wreaked havoc on the ECU's learning mode. -
> >Beau
> >
>
> I'm very interested in learning as much as possible about the programmable
> ECU's. I'm wondering how the Autorotor (or any other) installation could
> affect the function of the ECU. My short foray into F/I has taught me that
> problems lurk around every bend. I'm considering the purchase of a Link ECU
> and I want to know as much about what can go wrong with it and how/if it
> can be corrected. Is there a specific forum where these devices are discussed?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Manuel Patino
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: dlralt <(email redacted)>

At 11:52 PM 11/19/98 -0600, Dave Zenz wrote:
>
>Mark,
>
>Have you found anything yet? I've also just de-Autorotored, and my
>idle sits around 1800 rpm, and surges when I come to a stop.
>
>Dave Z.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: (email redacted)
>> [mailto:(email redacted)]On Behalf Of Mark
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 10:55 PM
>> To: MiataPower
>> Subject: 1900-2100 idle surge
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi guys,
>>
>> Just de-Autorotored a couple of days ago (naturally asparated again) and
>> forgot to put in the correct gasket on the idle air bypass (at the
>> bottom of the throttle body?). I just had a solid gasket there that
>> goes with a blind plate for the Autorotor setup. This resulted in a car
>> that would not idle cold. I would have to keep my foot on the gas until
>> she got warm. Once warm she would idle at 500 rpm!
>>
>> Remembered the black "O-Ring material" gasket that was stock and put it
>> in. Now she idles at 1900 to 2100 RPM surging every second or so. As I
>> tighten down on the idle adjustment the surging slows and the idle
>> eventually stabilizes at 2000 RPM as I bottom out the screw.
>>
>> What do you think? I could not find a vacuum leak and my J+S shows rich
>> lean just as it should. I disconnected my boost pump and it made no
>> difference. Adjusting my drivers side mirror did not help either.
>>
>> Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Mark S. Allen
>>
>>
There are only a couple of things that can cause an increase in idle speed.
Either you have way too much timing (unlikely) or you have extra air.
Things to check: nipple on back of #4 intake runner, any vac hoses you have
removed, base throttle plate adjustment and base idle air bypass
adjustment. Remember, as you tried to make the autorotor idle, you probably
went through lots of gyrations with idle air and throttle plate
adjustments. Now you don't have the drag on there, idle will be back up.
Don't forget to check cable adjustment, too. FWIW. Also, FWIW, I'm pretty
sure that Miata ecus have no learning in them, at least the early stuff.
Maybe the Obiwan II units do.
bill cardell
Dealer Alternative, Inc.
"We make Miatas fly!"
970-464-0878
dlralt.com

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Werner Cassel" <(email redacted)>

On 20 Nov 98, at 14:51, Beau Randall wrote:
>
> I was actually referring to the stock ECU, which alters the fuel map
> slightly depending on your driving style. - Beau
..........
Which year stock ECU? AFAIK, at least the early 1.6 ECUs have no learning
capabilities.

Werner

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Beau Randall <(email redacted)>



Don't know about the 1.6's. Should have mentioned that.

I believe there was an article, either in my Miata club's newsletter
or the MCA mag (or maybe even a thread on the big list), which theorized
that Miata's which are driven hard during break-in tend have a couple more
hp than conservatively driven Miata's. This is supposedly due to the
change in the ECU's behavior. - Beau

On Mon, 23 Nov 1998, Werner Cassel wrote:

>
> On 20 Nov 98, at 14:51, Beau Randall wrote:
> >
> > I was actually referring to the stock ECU, which alters the fuel map
> > slightly depending on your driving style. - Beau
> ..........
> Which year stock ECU? AFAIK, at least the early 1.6 ECUs have no learning
> capabilities.
>
> Werner
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Juan Carlos Castiel" <(email redacted)>


>
> I believe there was an article, either in my Miata club's newsletter
>or the MCA mag (or maybe even a thread on the big list), which theorized
>that Miata's which are driven hard during break-in tend have a couple more
>hp than conservatively driven Miata's. This is supposedly due to the
>change in the ECU's behavior. - Beau>


Ahh, that's the Dan Scolnick break-in. IIRC, you can also disconnect
the battery as to erase the ECU and drive it hard.

Juan

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Mail From: "Espen Tandberg" <(email redacted)>

> Ahh, that's the Dan Scolnick break-in. IIRC, you can also disconnect
> the battery as to erase the ECU and drive it hard.

Would this work on an FM ECU as well?? :-)

Espen

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: dlralt <(email redacted)>

At 12:31 PM 11/27/98 +0100, Espen Tandberg wrote:
>
>> Ahh, that's the Dan Scolnick break-in. IIRC, you can also disconnect
>> the battery as to erase the ECU and drive it hard.
>
>Would this work on an FM ECU as well?? :-)
>
>Espen
>
The FM will autotune itself for however you drive it. I *think* everyone is
barking up the wrong tree with this factory ecu learning, I know the 1.6
ecu doesn't have it and doubt that the 1.8 does, at least for non obdII cars.
bill cardell
Dealer Alternative, Inc.
"We make Miatas fly!"
970-464-0878
dlralt.com

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Dave Zenz" <(email redacted)>

> -----Original Message-----
> From: (email redacted)
> [mailto:(email redacted)]On Behalf Of dlralt
> Sent: Friday, November 27, 1998 1:11 PM
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: Re: 1900-2100 idle surge
>
>
>
> At 12:31 PM 11/27/98 +0100, Espen Tandberg wrote:
> >
> >> Ahh, that's the Dan Scolnick break-in. IIRC, you can also disconnect
> >> the battery as to erase the ECU and drive it hard.
> >
> >Would this work on an FM ECU as well?? :-)
> >
> >Espen
> >
> The FM will autotune itself for however you drive it. I *think*
> everyone is
> barking up the wrong tree with this factory ecu learning, I know the 1.6
> ecu doesn't have it and doubt that the 1.8 does, at least for non
> obdII cars.

Possibly, but I know my car ran better after resetting the ECU when
I was tuning the AutoRotor on my OBDII equipped '96, so I just started
doing it out of habit.

Dave Z.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Will Brown" <(email redacted)>

On 27 Nov 98 at 12:11, dlralt <(email redacted)> wrote:

re: oem ecu learning
> ...... I know the 1.6 ecu doesn't have it and doubt that the 1.8
> does, at least for non obdII cars.

My fwiw on this, is when I got an OEM ECU replacement for my '96
(obdii era), it idled like crap for a day or so, then settled down.
I just popped in on this thread, but it did so happen that when the
idle was erratic, it zoomed up to the values listed in the subject
field of this thread. I attributed that to it learning somehow, but
that's just my observation and I've never seen anything about that in
my '96 shop manual (doesn't mean it's not there, either)

\/\/