Miata List Archive

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Mail From: pethier ((email redacted))

I just looked at the garage procedure for the CAS O-ring replacement.
miata.net/garage/cas_oring.html

"The 1.8 can leak oil down and ruin the heater hose."

Truer words were never spoken. I was at an autocross Sunday. Spun the car (for the first time!) on my first run of the day. Finished my run and went back to the paddock to contemplate sway-bar tweaking (or driver tweaking). I was still in the car when I and others spotted smoke coming from under the hood. It was decided that it smelled like cooking glycol and not a fire, so I popped the hood and one of the crowd opened it. Guys swarmed around the car trying to help. I love my club.

Lots of coolant on the firewall. Some cooking away on the exhaust manifold. Sure enough, the bottom of the bottom heater hose, WAY back behind the cylinder head, feels thin and mushy. All of the heater hoses which are visible look and feel good-as-new.

Rex Schultrich stepped up and let me drive his Miata the rest of the day. No hassle for Timing & Scoring, as the cars are the same class. I just switched Rex's magnetic 47 for my magnetic 7 and we were fine. Rex and I both coned away trophies, but Rex's best clean run was faster than mine, so his good deed went unpunished. Rex continued his help by following me as I limped home. Temp gauge went neither alarmingly up or alarmingly down.

One of the local car-parts joints can have hoses and O-ring for me tomorrow night. 3 of the 4 hose fittings look pretty easy, but the one where the trouble lies is invisible and buried back there. I hope that with the CAS off it will be easier.

Any been-there-done-that stories are welcome.

Yes, the parking-brake arms on the rear calipers are still sticking. No, I don't think it is the cables. How do I lube them?

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net forum.mnautox.com/forums/
flickr.com/photos/pethier

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Larry (Larry Alster)

As for the hose, remove the coil pack and the CAS and you should be able to change it.

On the 1.6 engine it ruins the clutch hose instead of the heater hose.


As for the rear brakes remove the calipers, clean and lube both the upper and lower slider pins, lube them, reinstall the calipers and adjust the Allen screw. My procedure is to install both calipers and tighten the screws tight, then loose 1/3 turn. then step on the brake 4 or 5 times and then pull the parking brake 4 or 5 times, then go back and retighten both screws and back off 1/3 turn again. This way everything was fully seated when you set the adjustment.



Larry

White Knight 1991 Crystal White #99 CSP
Silver Bullet 1992 Silverstone #17 EM FM I+ Turbo
Honey B 1992 Sunburst Yellow J.R. M45
Whooosh 2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5

LowCountry Miata lowcountrymiataclub.net
Masters Miata
RAGS 074

----- Original Message -----
From: (email redacted)
To: (email redacted)
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 5:49 PM
Subject: [Miata] (no subject)


I just looked at the garage procedure for the CAS O-ring replacement.
miata.net/garage/cas_oring.html

"The 1.8 can leak oil down and ruin the heater hose."

Truer words were never spoken. I was at an autocross Sunday. Spun the car (for the first time!) on my first run of the day. Finished my run and went back to the paddock to contemplate sway-bar tweaking (or driver tweaking). I was still in the car when I and others spotted smoke coming from under the hood. It was decided that it smelled like cooking glycol and not a fire, so I popped the hood and one of the crowd opened it. Guys swarmed around the car trying to help. I love my club.

Lots of coolant on the firewall. Some cooking away on the exhaust manifold. Sure enough, the bottom of the bottom heater hose, WAY back behind the cylinder head, feels thin and mushy. All of the heater hoses which are visible look and feel good-as-new.

Rex Schultrich stepped up and let me drive his Miata the rest of the day. No hassle for Timing & Scoring, as the cars are the same class. I just switched Rex's magnetic 47 for my magnetic 7 and we were fine. Rex and I both coned away trophies, but Rex's best clean run was faster than mine, so his good deed went unpunished. Rex continued his help by following me as I limped home. Temp gauge went neither alarmingly up or alarmingly down.

One of the local car-parts joints can have hoses and O-ring for me tomorrow night. 3 of the 4 hose fittings look pretty easy, but the one where the trouble lies is invisible and buried back there. I hope that with the CAS off it will be easier.

Any been-there-done-that stories are welcome.

Yes, the parking-brake arms on the rear calipers are still sticking. No, I don't think it is the cables. How do I lube them?

--
Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net forum.mnautox.com/forums/
flickr.com/photos/pethier
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Mail From: loulobsinger (LOU LOBSINGER)

Can anybody tell me where my oil pressure should be at different RPM's. I have a feeling my oil pressures are too high. 60@3000

Thanks,
Lou Lobsinger
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Mail From: dean (Dean Woodward)

LOU LOBSINGER wrote:
> Can anybody tell me where my oil pressure should be at different RPM's.
> I have a feeling my oil pressures are too high. 60@3000

I have a feeling we need to know what year car; post '94 doesn't have a
real oil pressure gauge, it's just an indicator- you have it, or you don't.

On my '94, it pushes almost 90 PSI when cold, down to ~30 PSI at idle
when it's hot.

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Mail From: McCoolBros ((email redacted))

My 92 idles with an oil pressure of around 22 when warm.

Other pressures are the same.

Do you think I need a new oil pump?

Clay
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Mail From: romad (Dennis B. Swaney)

Original Message -----------------------
Can anybody tell me where my oil pressure should be at different RPM's. I have a feeling my oil pressures are too high. 60@3000

Thanks,
Lou Lobsinger


It is relative to:
Oil temperature
Oil viscosity
Age of oil

For example this morning mine started out reading almost 90; after the oil warmed up, the pressure dropped to just under 60. I changed the oil yesterday and used up the last of the 20w/50 I had on hand. I'm going to 10w/40 high mileage on the next change.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: 1138 (Joe Perez)

That's within factory spec.

With Mobil1 0w40 and a M1-104 filter, I see 50-60 cold idle, 80-90 cold at speed. 25 hot idle, 50-60 hot at speed.

This is a better method for determining that your engine has warmed up than looking at the temp gauge. When oil pressure drops to 20-30 at idle, 50-60 at speed, your engine is at normal operating temp.

- Joe Perez in the Red '92

---- LOU LOBSINGER <(email redacted)> wrote:
> Can anybody tell me where my oil pressure should be at different RPM's. I have a feeling my oil pressures are too high. 60@3000

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: lbgoodrich (goodrich)


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Mail From: CHRISTOPHER.ADAMS (CHRISTOPHER ADAMS)

Not only "no subject" but no content either. :)

>>> "goodrich" <(email redacted)> 10/24/2006 4:36 PM >>>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Larry (Larry Alster)

Didn't have much to say!!


Larry

White Knight 1991 Crystal White #99 CSP
Silver Bullet 1992 Silverstone #17 EM FM I+ Turbo
Honey B 1992 Sunburst Yellow J.R. M45
Whooosh 2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5

LowCountry Miata lowcountrymiataclub.net
Masters Miata
RAGS 074

----- Original Message -----
From: CHRISTOPHER ADAMS
To: (email redacted)
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Miata] (no subject)


Not only "no subject" but no content either. :)

>>> "goodrich" <(email redacted)> 10/24/2006 4:36 PM >>>


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