Miata List Archive

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Mail From: bradley lawler" <miata-driver (bradley lawler)

hey all,

I got some fine cut cleaner today, and I know it says to use with a buffer,
but how hard is it to use without one? I don't like them, but have some
swirl marks that you can see at only a few angles. I want to get rid of
them if I can. I also have some #26. I guess you use it second? Should I
get anything else, or take back the fine cut stuff?

Thanks
Brad


Don't let school interfere with your education.
--Mark Twain

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Mail From: frankpc (Frank Catena)

> hey all,
>
> I got some fine cut cleaner today, and I know it says to use with a
buffer,
> but how hard is it to use without one? I don't like them, but have some
> swirl marks that you can see at only a few angles. I want to get rid of
> them if I can. I also have some #26. I guess you use it second? Should
I
> get anything else, or take back the fine cut stuff?
>
> Thanks
> Brad

I've had good luck with Meguiars ScratchX product applied by hand.

Frank

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Mail From: john.freas (John Freas)

Previously on meguires wax, "bradley lawler" <(email redacted)>
said...

> I got some fine cut cleaner today, and I know it says to use with a
buffer,
> but how hard is it to use without one? I don't like them, but have some
> swirl marks that you can see at only a few angles. I want to get rid of
> them if I can. I also have some #26. I guess you use it second? Should
I
> get anything else, or take back the fine cut stuff?

You don't want to use #2 to take out swirl marks. Fine Cut Cleaner /makes/
scratches, that's it's job. Fine cut cleaner scratches the finish to scrub
off a layer of paint in order to remove oxidation and contamination in the
top layer of paint. What you have when you are done is a dull, scratched
finish which you must then polish out with finer and finer polishes.

What you want for minor swirls is #9 - Swirl Remover (go figure). It's what
you use /after/ #2 to remove the scratches. A final polish is optional
after that. The last step is #26, but if you put that on after #2 you'd
likely have a mess on your hands.

Bottom line is use #9 to get out the swirls, follow it with something like
Show Car Glaze if you feel the need for more polish, and then put the Yellow
Wax on top of that.

To answer your question however, yes you can do any or all of the above by
hand if you are feeling ambitious, it's just hard work and more difficult to
get the desired quality finish.

-John
_______________________________________________
John Freas
Red '90 Base-ish #7690
Owensboro, KY
Team LS1,2, SP, the Gap...
I love my Miata girl.
"I have no idea what those dimple things on the windshield frame are for."

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Mail From: simonsen (simonsen)

>>>>From: "bradley lawler" <(email redacted)>
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 22:25:29 -0500

I got some fine cut cleaner today, and I know it says to use with a
buffer,
but how hard is it to use without one? I don't like them, but have some
swirl marks that you can see at only a few angles. I want to get rid of
them if I can. I also have some #26. I guess you use it second?
Should I
get anything else, or take back the fine cut stuff?<<<<<<<<<

It will work fine by hand- matter of fact, if you're new to
these cleaners,
you might be better off like that anyway. Those buffers make it so
easy- 'BZZZT', there's a new spot on your car with NO PAINT!

-Bill

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Mail From: vocalise (YSC)

Hi:

Are buffers so dangerous to use? I've seen buffers in Walmart for $20 and
wondering if I should get one for better polishing and waxing jobs. I have
no idea about buffers, so please don't flame me for wanting to get a cheap
buffer. It seems to me that it's just a foam applicator pad attached to a
motor. I wonder how it differs from the "pro" or the more expensive models.
Is it a good idea to get a cheap buffer for waxing jobs on a Miata?

Daniel
----- Original Message -----
From: "simonsen" <(email redacted)>
To: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 11:00 PM
Subject: [Miata] meguires wax


> >>>>From: "bradley lawler" <(email redacted)>
> Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 22:25:29 -0500
>
> I got some fine cut cleaner today, and I know it says to use with a
> buffer,
> but how hard is it to use without one? I don't like them, but have some
> swirl marks that you can see at only a few angles. I want to get rid of
> them if I can. I also have some #26. I guess you use it second?
> Should I
> get anything else, or take back the fine cut stuff?<<<<<<<<<
>
> It will work fine by hand- matter of fact, if you're new to
> these cleaners,
> you might be better off like that anyway. Those buffers make it so
> easy- 'BZZZT', there's a new spot on your car with NO PAINT!
>
> -Bill
>
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: miata (Jeff Gehrig)

You want a "Random Orbital" buffer, NOT a Rotary buffer, you should also use
the correct buffing pad as all pads have different abrasive qualities. View
the video on the Meguiars web site for information on how to do the job
properly. Of course "Properly" is the ONLY way to do it!

Jeff Gehrig
Life Member
MX-5 Club of NSW
AUSTRALIA
mx5.com.au/nsw/




----- Original Message -----
From: "YSC" <(email redacted)>
To: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Miata] meguires wax


charset="big5"

Hi:

Are buffers so dangerous to use? I've seen buffers in Walmart for $20 and
wondering if I should get one for better polishing and waxing jobs. I have
no idea about buffers, so please don't flame me for wanting to get a cheap
buffer. It seems to me that it's just a foam applicator pad attached to a
motor. I wonder how it differs from the "pro" or the more expensive models.
Is it a good idea to get a cheap buffer for waxing jobs on a Miata?

Daniel
----- Original Message -----
From: "simonsen" <(email redacted)>
To: <(email redacted)>
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 11:00 PM
Subject: [Miata] meguires wax


> >>>>From: "bradley lawler" <(email redacted)>
> Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 22:25:29 -0500
>
> I got some fine cut cleaner today, and I know it says to use with a
> buffer,
> but how hard is it to use without one? I don't like them, but have some
> swirl marks that you can see at only a few angles. I want to get rid of
> them if I can. I also have some #26. I guess you use it second?
> Should I
> get anything else, or take back the fine cut stuff?<<<<<<<<<
>
> It will work fine by hand- matter of fact, if you're new to
> these cleaners,
> you might be better off like that anyway. Those buffers make it so
> easy- 'BZZZT', there's a new spot on your car with NO PAINT!
>
> -Bill
>
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata


_______________________________________________
Miata mailing list
(email redacted)
realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: frankpc (Frank Catena)

> You want a "Random Orbital" buffer, NOT a Rotary buffer, you should also
use
> the correct buffing pad as all pads have different abrasive qualities.
View
> the video on the Meguiars web site for information on how to do the job
> properly. Of course "Properly" is the ONLY way to do it!
>
> Jeff Gehrig

A second vote for a random orbital buffer. It would seem to be very
difficult to cause problems with one. Consider the car(s) that you'll polish
before you pick a size.as sometimes the smaller diameters work better on
bodywork with lots of features.
That said, I still often polish and wax by hand. More of a "bonding"
experience - or maybe I'm just an old fart.

Frank

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Mail From: vocalise (YSC)

Hi There:

I hope you won't mind a few more questions from the newbie..

I have been shopping for the Meguire's products, and I have visited their
site. It seems to me that their professional products looks more
specialized, yet there are similar products with the same functions in the
consumer line. I used the Car Care Rx and found products from both the
consumer and professional line listed as recommendations, depending on what
I select as what I am currently using (consumer, pro, or not sure). What are
the differences? Will the professional products be better given the same
intended use (e.g. paint treatment, polish and wax)? Or is it just
"marketing"?

Also have you tried any of the specialized touch-up paint blob smoothing
agents, such as the langka products (www.langka.com) and the Mother's Chip
Treatment kit?
(mothers.com/products/productcatalog/paintprod.html). I have a
few paint chips to do, and I'm hesitant about using the regular sanding
methods if there are any alternatives. Since the chip is cut to metal,
should I do something to seize the oxidation (i.e. rust) before touching up?
I haven't read about rust seizing in the touching up procedures on miata
forums and elsewhere; just sanding, prime and paint. What, if I ought, do I
use for it?

Finally, with orbital buffers: it appears that the cheapo Walmart buffers
are orbital. However there seems to be two general designs as I searched
around: one is basically a converted sander (like the one seen on Meguiar's
website, as well as the Porter Cable orbital sander I read about on Miata
forum). These appaer to use thick foam pads (instead of sanding paper). The
other is the consumer buffer, designed for the very purpose of waxing and
buffing, that uses bonnets, or cover-on "socks" for permenant foam pads.
What are the advantages of solid foam pads over the "bonnets"? Also what is
a good size for buffer? There are 10" and 6", and I wonder if the 10" may be
a tad too big for the Miata..

Thanks again for your kind interest and assistence..

Daniel
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Freas" <(email redacted)>
To: "YSC" <(email redacted)>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 12:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Miata] meguires wax


> > I am shopping for wax and buffing products as well. Where do you acquire
> > such a comprehensive knowledge about these products?
>
> I'm afraid there's not trick to it, I've been listening to others on this
> list, and using the stuff myself, that's how I learned what I know. I'm
not
> exactly an expert, just an experienced user.
>
> > I went to local auto
> > shops for these products and I don't find many options; even then I'm
> > completely nauseated by the various products out there for detailing. I
> know
> > what I want to do, but I don't know what I need.
>
> Yeah, I know, everybody has their own bottle of something for sale and all
> of them want you to think it's going to be the best thing since someone
> painted your car. If you want to learn about Meguiar's products from the
> source, you can start here:
> meguiars.com/product_showroom/showroom_template.cfm
>
> Also, have a look at their Car Car Rx page:
> meguiars.com/CarRx.cfm
>
> The tan colored, numbered bottles that you are familiar with are in their
> "Professional" line, but have a look at the consumer products too. One
that
> I have tried is the Gold Class Wash that I got as a sample and it is very
> nice stuff.
>
> > Also I saw $20 electric
> > buffers at Walmart. Do you think I should get something like that for my
> > buffing jobs? I also have questions about what applicator to use (terry
> > cloth, sponge, or scrubber?) among other things.
>
> I would recommend a good orbital buffer, probably like the one you found
at
> Wal*Mart. My wife picked one up a year or so ago and it works very well.
> The advantage is that it never gets tired whereas even on a small car like
a
> Miata, you /will/, especially if you are going to remove swirls, then
> polish, then wax. For swirl removal it will achieve in one or two tries,
> what it would take muscle power a long time to do.
>
> The downside to the orbital buffer is that they are typically bulky and a
> little awkward to use in smaller spaces. That's why the pros use rotary
> buffers which are essentially high speed electric drills with a 90¢X drive
> at the end. The difference is that the pros know what they can and can't
> get away with, which is important because you can burn the heck out of
your
> paint with a high speed rotary buffer. They're also the cause of swirl
> marks when used by the inexperienced. The consumer grade orbital buffers
> don't move fast enough or produce enough torque to damage the finish
unless
> something abrasive gets caught in the bonnet.
>
> When you're looking for an orbital buffer, if you have a choice go for one
> with more torque or hp (however it is rated), that'll help it polish and
> remove wax residue without bogging down.
>
> For bonnets, I don't have much expertise, in fact I'm still experimenting.
> Just about anything is good for application, although I would say that
> something like foam or less absorbant cloth will work best. For removal,
> terry cloth. Buy lots of terrycloth bonnets, as they get dirty they stop
> working and leave residue on the paint. For the final step I usually use
> one bonnet to start removal of the wax and then change to a clean bonnet
for
> a final polishing of the wax. You'll see what I mean when you do it, it
is
> not as big a factor in dry or warm weather when the wax really dries, but
> just a little moisture left in the wax makes taking it off cleanly a bit
> tricky.
>
> Good luck with your paint treatments, once you have an idea of what each
of
> the products is supposed to do it's a lot easier. Do get yourself that
> orbital buffer and don't try to do any of this in the sun and you should
be
> in good shape.
>
> -John
>
>