Miata List Archive

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Mail From: prios1 (Prios1)

Can anybody tell me if the brakes are a good do it your self maintenance? I
see no problems and it brakes fine but I want to replace the pads because
they are a little thin. Any tips would be great.

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Mail From: bonni (Bonni Weatherwax)

Any tips would be great.
>
***The first time is kinda tough -- but beings as I am one of several
racecar owners on this newslist, I have become somewhat proficient in the
changing of brake pads. :) It's a very do-able DIY project, just make sure
you have a good shop manual to follow along with. :) And if you like, I
can dig up an old tech article I did a few years ago for my local Miata club
on brakes. It even has pics! Lol.

BW

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Mail From: jmurray799 (Jim Murray)

The fronts are very easy, the rears a little more tricky. Grease the
slider pins with high-temp brake grease. I think the car in general is
great for the do-it-yourselfer.
I think the best way to start is to get this book:
Miata Performance Projects by Keith Tanner
flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=1623&parentid=0&stocknumber=46-86000

It is a great start for the Miata, and will tell you all the maintenance
items that your car will most likely need, and how to do them.

Jim
95

Prios1 wrote:
> Can anybody tell me if the brakes are a good do it your self maintenance? I
> see no problems and it brakes fine but I want to replace the pads because
> they are a little thin. Any tips would be great.
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> ftl.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata
>

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Mail From: flyboy (Berck E. Nash)

Prios1 wrote:
> Can anybody tell me if the brakes are a good do it your self maintenance? I
> see no problems and it brakes fine but I want to replace the pads because
> they are a little thin. Any tips would be great.

It's really just about the easiest maintenance task on the whole car.
Just as easy as an oil change and less messy, though more time
consuming. Here's a pretty good guide:

miata.net/garage/brakepad.html

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Mail From: flyboy (Berck E. Nash)

Jim Murray wrote:
> The fronts are very easy, the rears a little more tricky.

I'd say the rears are easier. I think it's much easier to turn an allen
wrench than squeeze the caliper piston back in manually...

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Mail From: abefm (Abraham Mara)

Tip #1. Have my sister do it for you. Brake jobs are her thing. Don't
tell her I said so, but sure anyone can do it, with a little patience and
WD-40. Be SURE to lube the slider pins, this bit of preventative maintance
will save you malfunctions/expenses later and is easy.
-Abe.

-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted) [mailto:(email redacted)] On Behalf
Of Prios1
Can anybody tell me if the brakes are a good do it your self maintenance? I
see no problems and it brakes fine but I want to replace the pads because
they are a little thin. Any tips would be great.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: flyboy (Berck E. Nash)

Abraham Mara wrote:
> tell her I said so, but sure anyone can do it, with a little patience and
> WD-40.

I dunno what you're doing with WD-40, but I sure wouldn't want it
anywhere near my brakes.

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Mail From: Larry (Larry Alster)

And what would your sister be using WD-40 for while doing a brake job?
There is no reason or purpose to be using something like that while doing
brakes. It has zero lube potential.

If anything needs to be cleaned you need brake cleaner and then a quality
brake grease should be used on the slider pins.

The rear brakes need to be adjusted with the allen wrench mentioned by
Berck, first to open the caliper and then to set the adjustment of the rear
caliper.

I have always found that stepping on the brake pedal 2 or 3 times and
working the hand brake 2 or 3 times and then readjusting the allen screw is
best.


Larry

White Knight 1991 Crystal White #99 CSP
Silver Bullet 1992 Silverstone #17 EM FM I+ Turbo
Honey B 1992 Sunburst Yellow
Whooosh 2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5

LowCountry Miata lowcountrymiataclub.net
Masters Miata
RAGS 074

----- Original Message -----
From: "Abraham Mara" <(email redacted)>
To: "'Prios1'" <(email redacted)>; "'Miata E-mail List'"
<(email redacted)>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 12:27 AM
Subject: RE: [Miata] 1995 Miata Brakes


> Tip #1. Have my sister do it for you. Brake jobs are her thing. Don't
> tell her I said so, but sure anyone can do it, with a little patience and
> WD-40. Be SURE to lube the slider pins, this bit of preventative
> maintance
> will save you malfunctions/expenses later and is easy.
> -Abe.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: (email redacted) [mailto:(email redacted)] On
> Behalf
> Of Prios1
> Can anybody tell me if the brakes are a good do it your self maintenance?
> I
> see no problems and it brakes fine but I want to replace the pads because
> they are a little thin. Any tips would be great.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> ftl.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: bonni (Bonni Weatherwax)

with a little patience and
> WD-40.

***OOF! You EVER come near ANY part of my brake system with that crap and I
will HAVE to shoot you (figuratively, of course). ICKA!!!

BW

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Mail From: bonni (Bonni Weatherwax)

> > The fronts are very easy, the rears a little more tricky.
>
> I'd say the rears are easier.

***Well, we are talking about beginners, Berck. That allen adjustment is
tricky if you don't know just how to tune it. I always wait til snug then
back off about a 1/4 turn and she's good without freezing the rear. The
fronts I just use a 2" C-clamp and I'm good. Been doing this for years
(10-20 front pad changes), and I've been real happy. I reckon it depends on
the person. The whole system, though, as you said, is pretty easy to work
with once one understands it a bit and has a bit of practice.

BW

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Mail From: rmcelwee (rmcelwee)

Go to your auto parts store and buy 2 packets of brake grease (looks like a
little ketchup packet). They are $1 each.

Since you are doing your brakes you should also flush your brake/clutch
fluid. Buy new fluid each time you do this (don't use the old stuff you have
sitting on your shelf). When you flush, make sure you do not let your
reservoirs run dry and suck air into the lines. Now is a good time to
purchase speedbleeder.com/ for your brakes and your clutch. I
purchased 3x SB7100 and 3x SB8100 because the clutch is sometimes one size
and sometimes another. They are $7 each.

Go to the dollar store and stock up on turkey basters. Use one to suck the
old fluid and gunk out of the reservoirs before you start. Don't get any on
your car (I put a trashbag with a few paper towels on it under my reservoirs
to make sure I get any drips.

If you are in a local club then this is a good job for tech day. If you are
not in a club or if your club does not have tech days then this would be a
good excuse to join/start.

Robert McElwee and Red Beast
1991 10PSI Hotside JRSC
Link ECU, BSP A/W IC, 9:1 pistons
Over 350 lbs of "added lightness"
www.lightweightmiata.com

Lightweight Miata Group:
autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/lightweightmiata/



----- Original Message -----
From: "Prios1" <(email redacted)>
To: "Miata E-mail List" <(email redacted)>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 10:22 PM
Subject: [Miata] 1995 Miata Brakes


> Can anybody tell me if the brakes are a good do it your self maintenance?
I
> see no problems and it brakes fine but I want to replace the pads because
> they are a little thin. Any tips would be great.
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> ftl.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: AbeFM (Abraham Mara)

Hrm... I never resorted to it myself (except once in a stuck bleeder on the
slave cylender on my fiero clutch - which eventually broke anyways), but
I've heard people have a lot of trouble getting the bolts loose. If you
can't get the caliper off, aren't you going to have trouble getting the rest
of it done?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Alster" <(email redacted)>


> And what would your sister be using WD-40 for while doing a brake job?
> There is no reason or purpose to be using something like that while doing
> brakes. It has zero lube potential.
>
> If anything needs to be cleaned you need brake cleaner and then a quality
> brake grease should be used on the slider pins.
>
> The rear brakes need to be adjusted with the allen wrench mentioned by
> Berck, first to open the caliper and then to set the adjustment of the
> rear caliper.
>
> I have always found that stepping on the brake pedal 2 or 3 times and
> working the hand brake 2 or 3 times and then readjusting the allen screw
> is best.
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Larry (Larry Alster)

And WD-40 is junk for that. Better off getting something designed to deal
with rust like a Rust Blaster type product.


Larry

White Knight 1991 Crystal White #99 CSP
Silver Bullet 1992 Silverstone #17 EM FM I+ Turbo
Honey B 1992 Sunburst Yellow
Whooosh 2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5

LowCountry Miata lowcountrymiataclub.net
Masters Miata
RAGS 074

----- Original Message -----
From: "Abraham Mara" <(email redacted)>
To: "'Miata E-mail List'" <(email redacted)>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Miata] 1995 Miata Brakes


> Hrm... I never resorted to it myself (except once in a stuck bleeder on
> the slave cylender on my fiero clutch - which eventually broke anyways),
> but I've heard people have a lot of trouble getting the bolts loose. If
> you can't get the caliper off, aren't you going to have trouble getting
> the rest of it done?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Alster" <(email redacted)>
>
>
>> And what would your sister be using WD-40 for while doing a brake job?
>> There is no reason or purpose to be using something like that while doing
>> brakes. It has zero lube potential.
>>
>> If anything needs to be cleaned you need brake cleaner and then a quality
>> brake grease should be used on the slider pins.
>>
>> The rear brakes need to be adjusted with the allen wrench mentioned by
>> Berck, first to open the caliper and then to set the adjustment of the
>> rear caliper.
>>
>> I have always found that stepping on the brake pedal 2 or 3 times and
>> working the hand brake 2 or 3 times and then readjusting the allen screw
>> is best.
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> ftl.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: poneal (P

The WD in WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement". I suppose it might *prevent* rust, but won't do much about existing rust. It's lubrication qualities are poor. I believe the "40" part refers to the fact that the inventor came up with the formula on the 40th try.

Pat.
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Alster
To: Abraham Mara ; 'Miata E-mail List'
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Miata] 1995 Miata Brakes


And WD-40 is junk for that. Better off getting something designed to deal
with rust like a Rust Blaster type product.


Larry

White Knight 1991 Crystal White #99 CSP
Silver Bullet 1992 Silverstone #17 EM FM I+ Turbo
Honey B 1992 Sunburst Yellow
Whooosh 2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5

LowCountry Miata lowcountrymiataclub.net
Masters Miata
RAGS 074

----- Original Message -----
From: "Abraham Mara" <(email redacted)>
To: "'Miata E-mail List'" <(email redacted)>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Miata] 1995 Miata Brakes


> Hrm... I never resorted to it myself (except once in a stuck bleeder on
> the slave cylender on my fiero clutch - which eventually broke anyways),
> but I've heard people have a lot of trouble getting the bolts loose. If
> you can't get the caliper off, aren't you going to have trouble getting
> the rest of it done?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Alster" <(email redacted)>
>
>
>> And what would your sister be using WD-40 for while doing a brake job?
>> There is no reason or purpose to be using something like that while doing
>> brakes. It has zero lube potential.
>>
>> If anything needs to be cleaned you need brake cleaner and then a quality
>> brake grease should be used on the slider pins.
>>
>> The rear brakes need to be adjusted with the allen wrench mentioned by
>> Berck, first to open the caliper and then to set the adjustment of the
>> rear caliper.
>>
>> I have always found that stepping on the brake pedal 2 or 3 times and
>> working the hand brake 2 or 3 times and then readjusting the allen screw
>> is best.
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> ftl.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata
>

_______________________________________________
Miata mailing list
(email redacted)
ftl.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata
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Mail From: tblough (Tom Blough)

WD-40 is hydrophilic. It displaces water by absorbing it. If left on
metal long enough it will actually cause rust.


Tom Blough &
"Molly" Red '99 LP
Avon, CT

"Driver does not carry cash - He's married"
FYI, Racecar spelled backwards is racecaR




-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted) [mailto:(email redacted)] On
Behalf Of Pat O'Neal
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 4:57 PM
To: (email redacted)
Subject: Re: [Miata] 1995 Miata Brakes

The WD in WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement". I suppose it might
*prevent* rust, but won't do much about existing rust. It's lubrication
qualities are poor. I believe the "40" part refers to the fact that the
inventor came up with the formula on the 40th try.

Pat.

----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Alster <mailto:(email redacted)>
To: Abraham Mara <mailto:(email redacted)> ; 'Miata
E-mail List' <mailto:(email redacted)>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Miata] 1995 Miata Brakes

And WD-40 is junk for that. Better off getting something
designed to deal
with rust like a Rust Blaster type product.


Larry

White Knight 1991 Crystal White #99 CSP
Silver Bullet 1992 Silverstone #17 EM FM I+ Turbo
Honey B 1992 Sunburst Yellow
Whooosh 2004 Titanium MazdaSpeed MX5

LowCountry Miata lowcountrymiataclub.net
Masters Miata
RAGS 074

----- Original Message -----
From: "Abraham Mara" <(email redacted)>
To: "'Miata E-mail List'" <(email redacted)>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Miata] 1995 Miata Brakes


> Hrm... I never resorted to it myself (except once in a stuck
bleeder on
> the slave cylender on my fiero clutch - which eventually broke
anyways),
> but I've heard people have a lot of trouble getting the bolts
loose. If
> you can't get the caliper off, aren't you going to have
trouble getting
> the rest of it done?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Alster" <(email redacted)>
>
>
>> And what would your sister be using WD-40 for while doing a
brake job?
>> There is no reason or purpose to be using something like that
while doing
>> brakes. It has zero lube potential.
>>
>> If anything needs to be cleaned you need brake cleaner and
then a quality
>> brake grease should be used on the slider pins.
>>
>> The rear brakes need to be adjusted with the allen wrench
mentioned by
>> Berck, first to open the caliper and then to set the
adjustment of the
>> rear caliper.
>>
>> I have always found that stepping on the brake pedal 2 or 3
times and
>> working the hand brake 2 or 3 times and then readjusting the
allen screw
>> is best.
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Miata mailing list
> (email redacted)
> ftl.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata
>

_______________________________________________
Miata mailing list
(email redacted)
ftl.realbig.com/mailman/listinfo/miata


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