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Mazda dealer service harms my car

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Mark Woody Mark W
Sacramento, CA, USA   USA
It all started when I complained about Mazda service taking my car for a week when they said it would only be a day or two, 2015 MX5 GT. Wouldn't tell me where it was. I got it back w a clanking left rear strut. Took it back 16 times in7 months and it kept getting worse, more dents, scratches, mechanical problems. They put 50 psi in the tires. By the end the back left chasse sagged 2"-3", top didn't work right, one vent always blew hot while another always blew air conditioned air even while on vent, terrible gas mileage, frame flanges carefully bent over Rt front and rt back camber & toe cams, out of balance and they openly laughted at me when I came in. I documented everything and took it to a lemon law lawyer. I traded it for nothing, got some money from Mazda USA and bought a MX 5 2016 club from another dealer I traded the 2015 to. The trade in was really low due to all the mechanical problems dealer service had inflected on it. When I rolled the new 2016 off the lot I found the tires where at 50 psi and the left rear strut clanked like crazy. After the first service the Rt rear strut clanked like crazy, they didn't change the oil filter and a numb nut service took off with it laughing at me even though I stated no one was to "test drive it" without me in the car. Mazda USA only backed the dealers harming the cars as far as I could tell, no help. MX 5 are a great car but Mazda dealers service members are assholes. Anyone want to buy this 2016 MX club for $28,000?
Mark

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wolfgangdieter Avatar
wolfgangdieter Gregory Seitz
Mary Esther, FL, USA   USA
My now over 2 year old '16 ND has been great. Serviced at 2 excellent NW FL small dealers. Replaced top assembly due to broken straps and faulty GPS antenna both under warranty. Not sure that no test drive without you is reasonable request - if you wanted it fixed. Sounds like Calif dealers are crappy. Surprised the Lemon Law didn't kick in so you'd not lose on the 2015?

davzway David W
Fort McCoy, FL, USA   USA
Dealerships are like people. Some are good and some are bad. Some good dealerships can have BAD mechanics who cause some terrible problems.

#1- Paperwork. NEED and MUST have everything documented. Sales contract, anything promised by sales person, MUST be in writing on sales contract OR it legally does not exist.

#2- Paperwork AGAIN, Service, detail list of what work you want performed, AND all the prices. Nothing on service order should be without a price.. IF factory warranty work, mark FACTORY Warranty where price goes (FW*, with note, saying *work marked with FW indicates labor and materials by factory warranty), and anything else, IF outside state like Florida where garages MUST provide estimates, simply state IF work will total more than $50 (or whatever amount you are comfortable with or dealer will agree with) the dealer must CALL YOU FIRST for authorization. When filled out, TAKE YOUR COPY of service order with you (dealer may argue,, but it's YOUR copy and with that in your possession, dealer cannot ADD or change anything and expect to get away with it. When picking up car, go over all work and prices, checking math if needed, insert your copy so dealer can put SAME totals on your copy that is on the work order.
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NOT AN ATTORNEY NOR GIVING LEGAL ADVISE,, consult attorney and/or state statutes.
Chrysler, Ford, and others have been in Small Claims Court. ALL ended up paying me money after going to court. Send written letter to dealer, describe issue, amount in dispute, or whatever, give twenty days to pay or fix or you will be forced to file in Small Claims, giving DATE when response must be received. Had local garage, doing 'preventative maintenance' timing belt job, along with water pump belt which again preventative slightly cracked surface squeak once in awhile,,, not doing timing belt, burned up engine. Took back he was to redo engine,, lot of letters, ending more than year later, FILING in Court, not only didn't pay repair bill, he ended up buying car back for what I had in car.

IF dealer is trying to bill you for more than agreed or on work order, DO NOT pay. Have spare key with you so if they pull the "not getting key back unless paid" trick, you can drive your car, IF that is in fenced area, have tape recorder or (TODAY cell phone) whatever, Record statement "you are attempting to force my paying more than legally owe per our work order, AND refusing to release my car unless I pay these fraudulent charges. I am recording this conversation, say you name and DEALER name and person talking with, and documenting your intent to force payment of Fraudulent charges and refusing to allow me to take possession of my car (state make, year, model). Giving you one last chance to accept proper amount as payment in full, OR last chance to release my vehicle,,, if they refuse, TWO ways to go, (A) Advise you are being forced to call cab or someone for transportation, and need car to get to work, be forced to obtain rental etc and ALL costs associated with their (say dealer name) refusal to allow you take possession of car if fraudulent bill is not paid. or (cool smiley way I'd go if dealer won't release car. CALL police and have them come out to dealer right then, officer will say it is civil matter, BUT have officer on record IF dealer still refuses to allow you to get your vehicle, get his badge number and request a CASE report or incident report,, or he could say you must PAY dealer and dealer must give you car,, do so INSIST on incident report be written up get work order and disputed amount,, etc on report,,

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